Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i'm just curious what is the best oil to use in my RB25. It currently has 126,000 KM's. I changed the oil around 2,000KM's ago and used a Nulon 15w-50.

What do you guys use? I mean, thicker, thinner, etc?

Cheers!

I got a 96 R33, use 0w30 mobil synthetic. There are heaps of threads regarding what oil to use

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4506766
Share on other sites

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4508994
Share on other sites

I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509435
Share on other sites

I just checked the oil during my lunch break, was barely any in the sump :s yet the dash oil-light wasn't on and the engine sounded normal o.O

Anywho, just brought 2 litres of that nulon till i completely change it on saturday.....

was the engine hot?

Usually to get accurate oil readings you have to drive it around till it hits operating temp. Stop the car and let it rest for about 5 mins (to let the oil drop down) and then check the oil.

Pull the stick out, wipe it and put it back in. When you take it out again, that's how much oil is left in the sump.

If you did that, ignore the above haha. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509744
Share on other sites

i used to run Castrol EDGE 10W-60, valvoline 15w-40 and nulon 10w-40 but then i finally decide to settle with Motul 300V 10w-40 (gotta admit its expensive), all synthetic, nothing less.

how much oil did u put in? RB25s carry 4.7L including oil filter. i used to run 10W-60(pretty thick stuff) and 15W-40 and had no oil consumption, though it takes awhile 2 warm up

Edited by R33_NICK
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4509977
Share on other sites

lol

i have a feeling this debate on what brand of oil to use can go on forever... Basially tho theres a few things you need to look at

1. 100% fully synthetic... Like Mobil 1 or most other high end brands like redline.

2. Cold weight... should be max of 15... lowest of 0. This weight doesnt matter as much, as this is only when its cold... when it heats up it will get thicker. Thinner oil is better for cold start up anyway as it takes less time to move around and coat all ur engine parts. Its not like you are going to be thrashing the car while its cold. Easy driving only!

3. Hot weight... should be around 30-50... i wouldnt go anything above 50 as its a bit thick for street use.

Other then that theres not much else to think about.

So why do i use mobil 0-40? (apart from the above) Xspeed who check out my car recommended me to use it... so i did.

Edited by br3ndan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510132
Share on other sites

personally I would use a slightly heavier oil than the 0 stuff in a 13 year old 100,000km+ rb

+1

and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

also I dont know what nissan australia recommend for the vq35 on their aus delivered 350z but the jap/usa v35s use a super light weight low friction oil and weve seen some slight issues with a heavier oil in them here

Nah sorry mate, i think you miss understood what i was saying. I had a skyline r33 low 100k km's just my reccomendations for his.

And also nissan i believe they reccomend 7.5w/30 in the 350z its a semi synthic i think... pretty much watery as.. its not too shabby so i dnt use it.

Also what problems have you seen lol? I've head some burn oil, maybe that super light thin oil justs run pasts the rings lol?

Edited by Mr_GaZZa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4510581
Share on other sites

Haha i always seem to create threads that turn into debates :sick:

I think i'll try to Motul 300v chrono oil and see how it goes.

I put in 4.5 litres of oil when i last changed it, so it wasn't full but it was close to it.

I was thinking, as the oil passes through the turbo, maybe it is burning oil? My brother told me he saw a little bit of blue smoke but that was a few weeks ago and he recommended changing the oil to a diff viscosity and it shouldnt burn any....

Anywho, thank you all for your input, i will try a different oil and let you know how it goes!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4511522
Share on other sites

and WOHOoO 30/50, thats like tank oil? you must have high crank pressure 24/7 haha, and then again i wouldnt use the THIN LIGHT oil,

engines pretty worn in at that km's and remember the engine oil goes throught the turbo.. so if you dont want to see blue smoke get something mid range

30/50 oil?

If u look again closely, i was saying thats the hot weight a skyline street driver should be looking out

0-15 is the cold weight that a skyline street driver should look at.

i did not mean the cold weight being 30 and the hot weight bbeing 50 :S not even a commodore should be running that!

So far ive been using mobil 1 and ive blown no blue smoke and it doesnt seem to use a drop of oil.

Ive also heard good things about motul 300v chrono.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/263318-96-r33-rb25det/#findComment-4512560
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...