Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

my mate is selling his r33 s1 mines ecu, very mild tune. Came of r33 s1 manual, pod filter, 3" exhaust, fmic.

not moving from $300 as its a safe tune.

pick up welcome from sydney. delivery is $10 express post.

Any more info on the tune? Hows the fuel efficiency and how was it mapped?

fuel effeciency feels the same as it was when it was stock only because in stock i kept hitting r&r and using alot of un-tuned fuel...

this map seems to take out all flat spots, but does go really well compared to stock i personally love it.

idles alot smoother to my stock ecu (after i got exhaust)

<br />fuel effeciency feels the same as it was when it was stock only because in stock i kept hitting r&r and using alot of un-tuned fuel...<br /><br />this map seems to take out all flat spots, but does go really well compared to stock i personally love it.<br /><br />idles alot smoother to my stock ecu (after i got exhaust)<br />
<br /><br /><br />

ah ok,sounds good. would it need any dyno tuning if i put it into my car? and how much power did you make with it?

<br />please research "mines ecu" alot of information on them, its just a chipped ecu, which i prefer as it maintains all the safety features of the stock ecu, which in my beliefs the jap engineers seem to have got right.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Hey man, ok Im pretty interested here, but just want to know, do I need to have a fmic on my car for it to work properly? (since yours has been tuned for it). wud i need to get a front mount for my car run alright?

With a mines ecu are they model specific or can u run them on both series 1 & 2?

Also could u post the Mines serial number in the first thread so i can look up the specs for it as i have one tuned for massive mods and am interested in yours.

cheers Davo.

davo where is the serial number found? also could you advise how i can search the specs too for future reference?

all the specs are on the mines site (mite need to google/translate some of it). Umm a mate is using my ecu atm so i cant check but from memory it has a gold and silver mines sticker on it and on one of those is a serial or reference number. I remember trying to look up stats ages ago its a bit of a hassel tho.

ill get the details soon, in the meantime do you mind posting the link to that section of the sitE?

http://www.mines-wave.com/

email them the Mines Plaque serial number and they will email u back with something like this:

Thank you for your email and query.

ECU Serial number shows the following tuning specs:

1. Removed the Speed Limiter

2. Reset the injection and ignition timing

3. Expanded the rpm from 7700 upto 8200 within the Rev Limiter

4. This VX-ROM is for CA18DET, MT, vehicle year (May.1989 - January.1992).

Oh forgot to say on that link click the english version banner then click the inquiry banner then click the Q3 link. Then all u have to do is fill in info of ya car and they'll get bak to ya wif whats done to that ecu.

Also did u hear any ping on 98 octane fuel? and when u installed ya mines ecu did u check your base timing?

Edited by Driftin~Davo
I've emailed them twice with no reply, are you sure these guys understand english?

Either way specs or no specs from the japs, the car was running the mentioned above with safe a/fs.

By safe A/F's did u measure using a wideband meter with a 3rd gear launch to redline on aus fuel 98 octane?

Also would ya mate b interested in trading with my mines? I can get the specs for ya but my mate that is borrowing it said runs way to ritch with stanard injectors.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...