Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm offering you 15$( this is a small case of beer guys. CHEERS!) to the member who will be able to resolve my problem.

1) So, I had a hard time to wire my STRI gauges because they were blowing fuses( tried on the radio, it blow my audio fuse( 10A), So I tried on my cig ligther, it blow too ( 15A).) My problem ? The ignition wire ask too much current. So I decided to wire it with my turbo timer harness which is directly connected to the ignition keys. So, I did that: No blow fuse, everything work well.

2) So I take my gtr for a spin: No Power Windows, can't lower my windows. And all my cluster meter are down to ZERO excepting my speedo cable because it's mechanic. But after 15 minutes of driving, my speedometer went down too. So I was back with no power steering.

3) So I took my dash apart( for the 5th times this week) to realise that everything was plugged perfectly and my speedo cable wasn't broken.

I saw in the BNR32 Manual that the ENGINE COMP RELAY BOX have a 25A power Windows and a IGN SW 30A. Could it be that? how do I change it?

I wired the 4 gauges together.Should I wire 2 gauges at one place and 2 other at another place?

Sounds like you have blown the main 75A fuse in the engine bay (near the battery). These are $15 from Autobahn. Not sure what these STRI gauges you are talking about but it sounds to me like you have a short circuit in your wiring. I am a little surprised the gauges power supply doesn't come with its own inline fuse? I would highly recommend installing a fuse in the power supply. Make sure you are using a good earth and again I always recommend running the earth wire directly to ground. Don't try and find a nearby black wire which appears to be an earth wire for something else. Go directly to earth.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Ben

So I'm offering you 15$( this is a small case of beer guys. CHEERS!) to the member who will be able to resolve my problem.

1) So, I had a hard time to wire my STRI gauges because they were blowing fuses( tried on the radio, it blow my audio fuse( 10A), So I tried on my cig ligther, it blow too ( 15A).) My problem ? The ignition wire ask too much current. So I decided to wire it with my turbo timer harness which is directly connected to the ignition keys. So, I did that: No blow fuse, everything work well.

2) So I take my gtr for a spin: No Power Windows, can't lower my windows. And all my cluster meter are down to ZERO excepting my speedo cable because it's mechanic. But after 15 minutes of driving, my speedometer went down too. So I was back with no power steering.

3) So I took my dash apart( for the 5th times this week) to realise that everything was plugged perfectly and my speedo cable wasn't broken.

I saw in the BNR32 Manual that the ENGINE COMP RELAY BOX have a 25A power Windows and a IGN SW 30A. Could it be that? how do I change it?

I wired the 4 gauges together.Should I wire 2 gauges at one place and 2 other at another place?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...