Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I'm offering you 15$( this is a small case of beer guys. CHEERS!) to the member who will be able to resolve my problem.

1) So, I had a hard time to wire my STRI gauges because they were blowing fuses( tried on the radio, it blow my audio fuse( 10A), So I tried on my cig ligther, it blow too ( 15A).) My problem ? The ignition wire ask too much current. So I decided to wire it with my turbo timer harness which is directly connected to the ignition keys. So, I did that: No blow fuse, everything work well.

2) So I take my gtr for a spin: No Power Windows, can't lower my windows. And all my cluster meter are down to ZERO excepting my speedo cable because it's mechanic. But after 15 minutes of driving, my speedometer went down too. So I was back with no power steering.

3) So I took my dash apart( for the 5th times this week) to realise that everything was plugged perfectly and my speedo cable wasn't broken.

I saw in the BNR32 Manual that the ENGINE COMP RELAY BOX have a 25A power Windows and a IGN SW 30A. Could it be that? how do I change it?

I wired the 4 gauges together.Should I wire 2 gauges at one place and 2 other at another place?

Sounds like you have blown the main 75A fuse in the engine bay (near the battery). These are $15 from Autobahn. Not sure what these STRI gauges you are talking about but it sounds to me like you have a short circuit in your wiring. I am a little surprised the gauges power supply doesn't come with its own inline fuse? I would highly recommend installing a fuse in the power supply. Make sure you are using a good earth and again I always recommend running the earth wire directly to ground. Don't try and find a nearby black wire which appears to be an earth wire for something else. Go directly to earth.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Ben

So I'm offering you 15$( this is a small case of beer guys. CHEERS!) to the member who will be able to resolve my problem.

1) So, I had a hard time to wire my STRI gauges because they were blowing fuses( tried on the radio, it blow my audio fuse( 10A), So I tried on my cig ligther, it blow too ( 15A).) My problem ? The ignition wire ask too much current. So I decided to wire it with my turbo timer harness which is directly connected to the ignition keys. So, I did that: No blow fuse, everything work well.

2) So I take my gtr for a spin: No Power Windows, can't lower my windows. And all my cluster meter are down to ZERO excepting my speedo cable because it's mechanic. But after 15 minutes of driving, my speedometer went down too. So I was back with no power steering.

3) So I took my dash apart( for the 5th times this week) to realise that everything was plugged perfectly and my speedo cable wasn't broken.

I saw in the BNR32 Manual that the ENGINE COMP RELAY BOX have a 25A power Windows and a IGN SW 30A. Could it be that? how do I change it?

I wired the 4 gauges together.Should I wire 2 gauges at one place and 2 other at another place?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...