Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So im in the market for a 24" or 26" monitor.

Can anyone recommend me anything? My old monitor and lcd tv are samsung and so im leaning towards the brand again.

will be mainly used for graphics work, modeling and video editing as a docking station for my laptop. One thing that is a must is not having stuff stretched out on all those wide screen monitors Ive been seeing lately. I just want a true increase in realestate for all my app menu's.

Any feedback much appreciated

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264225-monitorswhats-your-poison/
Share on other sites

BenQ 2400WD (24"), perfect and it was just over $300.

You can get a similar model (16:9 though, so widescreen, mine is 16:10) from www.pccasegear.com - $319, delivery is around $15-$20.

But then if your doing graphics and so on that depends on critial super monitors, a $300-$400 24" is not what you want, your looking @ near double.

But then if your doing graphics and so on that depends on critial super monitors, a $300-$400 24" is not what you want, your looking @ near double.

+1, if you are using your monitor to do serious graphic editing work, then you are looking for a LCD that has a 8bit panel instead of the mainstream 6bit TN panels. Basically the 8bit can display a lot more shades of different colour (I read somewhere the 8bit can do ~94% of the NTSC colour spectrum compared to the typical 75% of mainstream monitors).

So im in the market for a 24" or 26" monitor.

Can anyone recommend me anything? My old monitor and lcd tv are samsung and so im leaning towards the brand again.

will be mainly used for graphics work, modeling and video editing as a docking station for my laptop. One thing that is a must is not having stuff stretched out on all those wide screen monitors Ive been seeing lately. I just want a true increase in realestate for all my app menu's.

Any feedback much appreciated

Cheers.

Just to be sure, you want a monitor that can do 1:1 pixel mapping? I.E. if you throw a 4:3 image to the screen it won't stretch it out to itself default aspect ratio (16:10 or 16:9?) but will instead keep the image at 4:3 with black bars on both sides?

The high end Samsungs & high end Dells both have this feature & are both 8bit panels. But they cost like $700+ for the 24" models.

Man that links gonna take me a while to get through..ha. thanks That benq sounds like a bargain.

thanks fellas for the input. i did abit more research into montiors after i posted and S-IPS or H-IPS pannels are the top dogs but by the looks of it they cost an arm and a leg..lol the one that keeps on popping up is the NEC 2490 but I can't seem to get a price on it but im guessing $1500 which is still abit overkill for where I'm at. Isnt it always the case that you want the best but your wallet pimp slaps you back to reality.

I'm not doing any graphics for press or videos for production so I think i can get away with just a TN pannel for now i guess, its more the increase in screen realestate that I'm after cause all the menu's on these programs I use take up a fair bit of space.

Mayuri: yeah something like that. Pretty much what my 19" is displaying but with a couple more inches in space around for me to work with if that makes any sense so no black bars.

So what should I look out for in terms of "native resolution and scaling" courtesy of the link which would probably answer my question if i read further, in terms of getting a monitor that won't "stretch" the desktop and give me true or close to 1:1 images....just native resolution or is there a particular ratio?

Gonna have to read more into colour gamut me thinks. And here i thought buying a new monitor would be easy.

You mean running a resolution thats not the monitors native?

The BenQ 24" is 1900x1200 native. So running that wont 'stretch'. Even then most programs will scale ok.

If its not business critical, the BenQ (im using it now) is about the best bang for the dollar. Next step would be the IPS Panels but as you said, they are $$$.

Spending an extra $100-$200 on a 24" that at the end of the day is a TN panel, i dont think is worth it, as its only ever gonna be a TN

yeah ive now accepted that im not gonna get anything super crash hot for my budget..ah well. As long as its decent and reliable that'll do me. Your right about BenQ, those prices are pretty darn good.

Think ill drop by harvey normal some time and have a look at some in person to get a better idea.

Thanks for the input guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...