Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

im Bjorn from the Gold Coast.

currently own a 2007 Lotus Elise & 2005 Barina P2160017.jpg

keep having these unpure thoughts about buying an R32 GTR, so thought it may be worth popping my head in here and learning a little more, because i dont like to buy anything blind and not aware of what i'm in for.

thinking i want a stock (or as close as possible) R32. definately dont want a Wangan road special, but a genuine straight car. something that will be a long term keeper rather than a disposable car which ive noticed so many GTR's seem to be treated by people who blow them up then let them rot because they cant afford to fix em (not trying to make fun of anyone in particular here).

anyway, preference would be for an Aussie spec car, but from what ive seen they are asking over double what an import is worth. so if anyone wants to chime in with expected prices for cars, things to look out for, etc would be great. pretty much want to get a great car, so colour isnt important, as long as its not that charcoal or green. Burgundy, silver or white are the preference.

Cheers

B

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264265-introduction/
Share on other sites

Hi Bjorn, Welcome!

You may have to be patient getting the right R32 GT-R > and then pounce!

The Aussie spec GT-R is going up in value whereas the JDM version in good nick is staying about the same.

They're a very special car indeed. Burgundy is also my fav. colour too.

Driven one yet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264265-introduction/#findComment-4519170
Share on other sites

Driven one yet?

beleive it or not i havnt, but that said basically every car ive ever brought ive brought without driving

MR2

MX5

WRX

300ZXTT

my first Elise

AE86

etc etc

really the AUs spec ones are already appreciating? i wouldve thought with all the JDM stuff their value would be in the gutter (within reason). ive seen a black aus spec for sale for $65k, but why would i pay that when for what i presume about $25k i can get an equivelant condition JDM car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264265-introduction/#findComment-4519194
Share on other sites

Channel 7 is coming out soon with a doc on collectible/classic cars which appreciate in $$. They asked around for one of the 100 Aus spec R32 GT-Rs and nabbed one for their shoot.

well seems im kind of on the right track. but no way id bay anything more than a 20 or 30% premium, if i can have a JDM car that is perfect for much less.

luckily also my Girlfiend used to live in Japan, so if i find any car with service books etc, she can read them for me :blink:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264265-introduction/#findComment-4519625
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...