Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

so my car was getting harder and harder to start because of my mongoose mx40 immobiliser, so one morning it stopped working (i only have 1 remote) and so i pulled the battery out, its a23 battery only had 6.5v so i was like well i guess that is the problem, bought a new battery and it would work first time everytime,

then about a week later went to start my car but it wouldnt work, so i fiddled with the battery but still didnt get anything, left it for 2 more days as i was pissed at it and it worked straight away,

so what could be wrong with this? the remote maybe? anyway of getting a new 1? the red light does come on when pressing the button, so i really dno what it could be?

any help would be good,

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264313-mongoose-alarm-help/
Share on other sites

i have the extact same problem in my car, except i got the mongoose m80. was working fine in the afternoon then coudndn't start my car at all at night.

im gona call the alarm guy to come check it out tommorow, will let u know.

ok cheers man, yeah mine didnt work in the morning both times, not sure if it was to do with the cold or wat, but it hasnt been that cold,

so yeah i really wanna sort this out,

hey found the problem, it was only a flat battery. i had 1 volt left on it lol.

anyway the alarm guy also told me everytime u change the battery u have to arm/disarm the little black box thing (dunno what its called) thats next to the battery with the little key that u got with ur alarm. (kinda looks like a steering wheel lock key but smaller).

otherwise ur car won't start.

hope this helps.

  • 1 year later...

I've just recently encountered a similar problem with the M80 immobiliser.

The range at which I could open my car (Since the remote serves as both arming/disarming the engine aswell as opening/locking the doors) significantly decreased over time, indicating a fade of battery life.

Sure enough, it eventually stopped working however, luckily I was at home and I was able to get my spare remote.

After reading this thread I was intruiged as to what "key" you are speaking about? Is it not simply a change of battery and away you go?

I was simply given two remotes with a safety card and pin incase I ever cannot use the remote.

Unfortunately I cannot send PM's yet (since I roam the forums and never post :)) - Hoping someone can help :)

I guess he's talking of the small key to turn off the siren.

Without that key, you can't easily remove your car's battery. The siren has its own on board power and it will go right off as soon as you remove a battery terminal.

And with the alarm within 1m of your head its frikn loud as fk lmao. Remember having to change the battery in my old car and forgot that key much fun.

With the battery backup sirens, its quite painful doing any battery disconnecting without being able to turn off the siren.

I have a problem with my M80, when I turn the car off it should time out 20 sec before the immobaliser kicks in and the display LED flashes fast, then bam it immobalises it self. But some times after turning the car off the LED doesn't flash or come on at all for around 1min and when I get out the car it won't lock, have to do it with the key. Strange much?

  • 4 years later...

I have a problem with my M80, when I turn the car off it should time out 20 sec before the immobaliser kicks in and the display LED flashes fast, then bam it immobalises it self. But some times after turning the car off the LED doesn't flash or come on at all for around 1min and when I get out the car it won't lock, have to do it with the key. Strange much?

Having the same issue, randomly started. Alarm rings but dies not lock or unlock the doors. Led flashes rapidly when unlocked and then it immobilised and resutns to normal flashing. Any help guys?

  • 2 weeks later...

Often fast flashing led after disarming is a sign that the alarm had been set off and needs resetting to clear the code, my old alarm the number of flashes told you which sensor was activated. Not sure this will fix the issues or if its relevant to your alarm, but search for how to do this and give it a shot.

Thanks to another member on this site who PM'd me, my thoughts were confirmed. The twin connector bit that connects the door lock rod and the actuator rod had come loose and so the alarm didn't know that the door had locked or not.

What I did was:

Take the door panel off,

Replace the missing screw on the double connector

Enjoy the locking/un-locking door :yes:

You would be better off finding an N15 pulsar door catch assembly and swapping it in. You will not need to adjust that at all.

Been told this a few times. Perhaps when it breaks next time, ill change it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Block bump. $400. As above cyl 6 needs bore or sleeve.
    • I would think making the argument that the travel is limited by a spring flexing against a spring perch as "the same method". Later on in the document they do state that the spring can't bind on full bump travel and cannot come loose in full rebound travel as well. (which is all very sensible). The laws are actually pretty sensible and reasonable. It's just that the people who enforce and check them don't actually read them or know them accurately. "Oh, coilovers? Instant fail mate. Don't even need to look at it." - Guy who will be instantly reported by me. There is probably merit to people who do get defected for height also get defected for the suspension in that state that allows it. I did never consider the people who are complaining about coilovers being picked on are also running around at 50mm off the floor.
    • I think given SAU's knowledge of E85 we can strongly conclude that 10% ethanol in almost any situation is entirely fine. Almost all of the myths against E85 were overblown, let alone E10.
    • From your link See bold text, is this referring to damper settings, if so that may a issue for "some" inspectors, I cannot see aftermarket coilovers having the evidence that "must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original" Maybe just remove the adjustment knows and hope for the best???? Meh 5.2 Suspension travel In all instances, modifications to a vehicle’s suspension must ensure the integrity of the system and not compromise the ride quality. At least two thirds of the original suspension travel should be maintained in both directions (rebound (i.e. extension) and bump (i.e. compression)), and rebound must be limited by the same method used by the vehicle manufacturer or if this is not practicable due to the nature of the modification, an equivalent method. If an alternative method is used, evidence must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original.
    • They actually don't - They adhere to VSB14 rules just like Victoria. The rules are against CABIN adjustable height, and it quite clearly states that the height has to be within parameters. I asked the VASS engineer to confirm this when I got my car engineered and they refused to engineer the coilovers because they didn't meet the requirements for requiring engineering. (mine are height adjustable.) People "Not wanting to bother" with "Actually reading/knowing/adhering to the rules" should result in fines and immediately losing the ability to issue blue slips and/or RWC's in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...