Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay boys, i did a search on this on the site and didnt really find out much info at all. and ive done a google search and didnt really get the answer's that i wanted either.

ive been hearing about this e85 fuel that america has been using for 10 years now and i hear that its going to come to out pumps in the future. thats how they get away with running 2000hp rigs on the street.

ive also heard that its got more octane then c16, round 160% and e85 is about 60% methanol, and its going to be cheaper then our normal 98% fuel we have at our pump nows. allllllllso been told that all new cars being made from the beginning of this year have been set up for this fuel as its cleaner then to burn into the atmosphere so thats why the goverment is pushed for it.

can anyone confirm this with any links to other websites?

cause if this is true, we can now get a cheap race fuel on tap, but our fuel systems will need a upgrade to take the mix of strong liquids in the fuel, rule lines are to be changed, fuel pumps, much bigger injectors as they will be squirting much more fuel.

ok stay safe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264708-e85-fuel/
Share on other sites

Unless you live next door to a servo that sells E85 it's a waste of time (at present).

I have sized the entire fuel system on the race Z for E85.

Planning to take a 44 gallon drum to the United station to get the fuel. Word is that the octane rating is 110+ and many engines can be advanced past Bottom dead centre without detonation.

AND ITS CHEAP. :)

Sounds like a winner to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264708-e85-fuel/#findComment-4524664
Share on other sites

How you missed the 33 page sticky is beyond me... or the other E85 threads

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Jo...html&hl=E85

(there are others) - i searched with "E85"...

Please ensure you actually try searching, not just saying you did :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264708-e85-fuel/#findComment-4524736
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...