Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Have had this issue with my 33 for a while now and am going to be hopefully fixing it very soon once my new brakes go in. Just want to basically know if anyone has had this problem or knows what it is.

Best example is if im on the free way, i can literally make the car change lanes either way by just using the brake or throttle. When i brake, the car leans to the right while the steering wheels slightly leans to the left.. :laugh:

If i accelerate the exact thing happens in the opposite direction (left).

If i am driving straight at a steady speed (not braking or accelerating the car is pretty much going straight.

Could this simply just be the need of a wheel alighnment or something loose/worn that needs replacing?

I did install aluminium rear cradle bushes & a hicas lock bar 2 years ago before the car came off the road and i cant remember whether i did a wheel alighnment on the car afterwards or not...

Appreciate your help

Edited by Dean_HR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265176-help-with-my-steering-problem/
Share on other sites

yeah start with a wheel alignment. that will tell you the basic stuff is OK (or not).

generally a car that pulls one side under brakes has stuck pistons in the brake on the opposite side - so you might need to overhaul the front calipers too.

yeah think thats a good idea...

Also can somebody tell me if a wheel alighnment would be affected in any way if i was to change my rotors and brake pads all round after completing a wheel alighnment???

you never aligned it? lol

when i installed my hicas bar i had to practically crabwalk my car to the suspension joint for an alignment. you'll definately be out...

take your front bar off before you go in too dude.... the 400r is way too low for like 99% of alignment machines.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...