Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, just wanted to ask, coz Im not sure if I should go ahead with this yet, but yeah if I buy a remapped ecu that has been tuned for a front mount intercooler, when I dont have a front mount, is that bad? would I need to get a front mount for it to work properly? I found a tuned r33 ecu for a good price and just wanna know that it will work right with a more stock set-up.

The only mods I have are pod filter, and thats about it. The ecu I wanna buy has been tuned for a fmic and can run 15psi of boost. I'm currently running 10 psi.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. lol this is where my Krudd bonus is headed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265343-aftermarket-ecu-tuned/
Share on other sites

<br />Just be careful, is its a Jap tuned ECU then it will be tuned for 100ron fuel, not 98ron like we have here.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Oh really? well Im not sure coz the guy is from here and ran it in his car, said it was alright with the fuel. the ecus been tuned by top secret. but yah i just wanna know if running a standard intercooler will be alright with that ecu?

It'll be fine without the FMIC. All the IC does is cool the inlet charge and as long as you're not pushing big numbers all will be well. Relax and buy the ECU if it's a good price. I would.

Don't run the stock turbo above 14psi though, 12psi will be safe. I have a mate who's been pushing his to 16psi and she's still singing......

<br />It'll be fine without the FMIC. All the IC does is cool the inlet charge and as long as you're not pushing big numbers all will be well. Relax and buy the ECU if it's a good price. I would.<br />Don't run the stock turbo above 14psi though, 12psi will be safe. I have a mate who's been pushing his to 16psi and she's still singing......<br />
<br /><br /><br />

ok cool, but yeah forgot to mention, the turbo's been high flowed, but i personally wouldnt push it over 12psi anyways. the ecu's been done by top secret so im pretty interested to see what it can do. so ,cool as long as it will be alright then im sold. thanks man

<br />It'll be fine without the FMIC. All the IC does is cool the inlet charge and as long as you're not pushing big numbers all will be well. Relax and buy the ECU if it's a good price. I would.<br />Don't run the stock turbo above 14psi though, 12psi will be safe. I have a mate who's been pushing his to 16psi and she's still singing......<br />
<br /><br /><br />

ok cool, but yeah forgot to mention, the turbo's been high flowed, but i personally wouldnt push it over 12psi anyways. the ecu's been done by top secret so im pretty interested to see what it can do. so ,cool as long as it will be alright then im sold. thanks man

<br />these premapped ecu's are a bad idea IMHO... they are probably tuned on 100ron and are for car specific mods<br />
<br /><br /><br />

yeah a few people have told me that. Dunno if i should just do a full remap of mine or go for a power fc, coz they cost a bit of money. And the guy i wanna buy from said it was tuned here, so it wouldnt be 100octane fuel. I was jus worried about gettin it coz i dnt hav a front mount IC and was worried if it would run wierd without one.

Weren't all those ECU's mapped on the premise of not only having car specific mods, but say an actual part number? And then you sent them back to Mine's, Impul etc to get them adjusted accordingly for more mods?

Having said that, a mate runs an Impul ECU on a bog stock RB20 with FMIC and 3.5" exhaust, and it goes so well for a stock RB20 we almost thought it had to have cams in it! Also dosen't detonate on 98 RON fuel.

I ran a Jap tuned Mines ECU on mine for a while at I had no detonation problems.

Even if there was a slight detonation, octane boost would sort that out in a jiffy.

A Top Secret ECU is worth getting, they are after all one of the best in the business.

Even if you get scared and don't want it Benzino33, point me in the right direction. I would snap it up without hesitation.

<br />I ran a Jap tuned Mines ECU on mine for a while at I had no detonation problems.<br />Even if there was a slight detonation, octane boost would sort that out in a jiffy.<br />A Top Secret ECU is worth getting, they are after all one of the best in the business.<br />Even if you get scared and don't want it Benzino33, point me in the right direction. I would snap it up without hesitation.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

Ok cool, I jus wanted to make sure it wasnt gonna blow my motor, and thats alright lol Im payin for it tonight and should b here next week at the latest. thanks for the input guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...