Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine Specs:

N1 24U block (own modifications done) race prepped

Chemically cleaned/crack tested and washed

Torque plate bored honed & decked

All new welsh plugs

Tapped oil gallaries

Fully balanced/detailed crank and grub screwed

Race prepped crank gurdle

Shot peened/prepped standard rods with ARP bolts

Full ARP bottem end stud kit

Ross Racing forged pistons (ceramic coated)

ACL race bearings mains & rods

N1 oil pump (modified)

N1 water pump

Ross harmonic ballancer

Genuine Nissan gasket kit

Fully port & polished head

Match ported intake

Brass valve guids

Standard valves

Upgrade valve springs

Standard cams

Greddy adjustable cam gears

Gates timing belt

Turbo:

New genuine exhaust studs & nuts

Garrett GT3082r turbo polished front cover

Braided oil lines

.82 & 1.06 housings ceramic coated

Tial 44mm wastage

Stainless manifold modified

Exhaust:

4" Stainless dump pipe

4" Stainless catback exhaust

4" Stainless Ballistic hi flow cat

Cooling:

600x300x115mm Greddy style intercooler

Customing aluminium piping

Greddy twin entry air intake pipe

2 x RB25 Air flow meters

Drivtrain:

Custom PBR clutch

Nismo lightened flywheel

Suspension:

Tein Coil overs

Fuel & Ignition:

Nistune ECU

Sard fuel pressure regulator

custom fuel rail

044 fuel pump

2L surg tank

3/8" Aluminium fuel lines

Heap of speed flow fittings & push lock hose

Sard 700cc injectors

Interior:

Series 2 seats front and back

boost guage

electronic boost controller

gtr 11000rpm dash

Exterior:

Genuine gtr front bar

Genuine gtr grill

Top secret carbon bonnet painted

Carbon exhaust shroud

Drift lip

Wheel:

18x8 & 18x9.5 drift r's

Price: $21,000 ono

Contact: pm or call 0435278050 Anthony only serious offers please

Extra info: The car has been finished for around 3 weeks now it starts and runs but will require run in and tune. I have over $25,000 in reciepts plus the cost of the paint job at hand.

img0013hjx.jpg

p1100115.jpg

p1100092.jpg

Edited by johnbarry88
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265483-rb26-r33-gts-t-street-weapon/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...