Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

A mate of mine just had his timing belt,w/pump, idlers etc on his R32 replaced by a local mechanic. Anyways two days later he noticed a rubbing noise coming out from under the timing cover. We pull it off, and where the belt runs on the cam pulleys, it is hanging over by about 3-4mm....

We assumed the tension was wrong ,so we reset the tension on the timing belt...but turned the engine over by hand a few times, and within about 5 turns the belt had already started working its way off the cam pulleys..finally it gets to where its about 4mm off then runs steady and doesnt go any further, but our concern is that it may start to wear the belt abnormally quick..

Is this the result of the belt not being tensioned correctly the first time and wearing the belt??

If so he should replace the belt?(car has done about 50kms since th eservice)

Is it the tensioner hasnt been installed properly?

Or is it something more sinister??

If anyone has experienced this before, or has some insight it would be much appreciated!!

Thanks all,

Ben

Edited by Benzy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/265734-timing-belt-problems/
Share on other sites

Timing belts always track to one side due to the way the tensile cords are put in the belt. The flanges on pulleys/sprockets are what keep the belt from tracking off. The distance between the flanges will be less than the width of the other pulleys in the system.

So I would assume that the problem is something to do with the flagnes, ie the crank pulley as already mentioned. The other cause for the belt tracking incorrectly is misaligned pulleys. Being an engine though this shouldn't normally be an issue unless things haven't been installed correctly. The crank pulley is pushed/pressed on from memory so maybe it just isn't pushed on far enough?

Tension does not make the belt run off of the edge of a pulley.

Either way you don't want the belt running off of the edge of a pulley as it will reduce the belts life.

Thanks for the responses guys, had a quick squiz this morning, and It looks like the crank TIMING PULLEY could be on too far ?? The gaurd that slips on behind the main pulley is extremley loose (1-2mm play) And just by looking at the belt, it appears to twist back slightly under the tensioner and idler....

But how could that timing pulley move back towards the block? As the mechanic wouldnt have had to touch it..

Only other thing it could be is the main pulley isnt on far enough..(as mentioned above, cheers) ill get a torque wrench and check it this arvo...

Ill get a laser pulley aligner from work too and check they are all level..

But if the bottom timing pulley HAS moved, where do we go from there?? Anyone else ever had this problem??

Any insight is much appreciated,

Thanks again, Ben

Thanks for the responses guys, had a quick squiz this morning, and It looks like the crank TIMING PULLEY could be on too far ?? The gaurd that slips on behind the main pulley is extremley loose (1-2mm play) And just by looking at the belt, it appears to twist back slightly under the tensioner and idler....

Something is seriously wrong here and your mate shouldn't drive the car or even run the engine until it's been properly investigated. From your description it sounds as if the harmonic balancer hasn't been tensioned correctly or something has been mis-assembled in that area. If it were me I'd be taking the harmonic balancer off, plus all the timing covers and have close look at everything. Certainly if the belt has been rubbing on the covers (or anything else) you should be inspecting it for damage and possibly even replacing it entirely.

Also find another mechanic......

Yep. Car is never going back to that mechanic... Ok, harmonic balancer is now off, I have checked the engine manual, but cant see anything wrong, apart from the timing pulley doesnt meet the keyway on the shaft...if you get what i mean...The keyway ends then 2mm gap then timing pulley....Is it meant to meet it?? Yep,Have already orderd a new gates racing belt.

Edited by Benzy

Problem SOLVED!!! MECHANIC DIDNT TIGHTEN THE HARMONIC BALANCER!!! After we pulled it off, fitted the new belt and refitted the balancer it tightened the whole way up to the timing pulley. Very relieved. no more overhang..Needless to say, the mechanic is going to be paying us for the replacement belt! Thanks heaps to everone who offered insight and advice both here and via PM. Couldnt ask for a better outcome

Cheers,

Ben

The harmonic balancer bolt on the RB26 needs to be tightened very tight. About double your average balancer bolt tension. From memory its up around 420 ft-lb. If it wasnt tightened correctly then that could have caused it to come loose.

Deren

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...