Jump to content
SAU Community

Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge Install

gts4

By gts4,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Zensoku Collaborator

Zensoku

Posted
Posted

You use a T piece. I can't remember what thread it was. (maybe 1/8" NPT?) But you connect the "T" piece where the original oil pressure switch was, and you connect BOTH the OE oil pressure switch and the gauge sender to the remaining threads on the T piece. Try Pirtek or Enzed for the fittings. (i used an additional right angle bend) and i ordered a T piece made by VDO.

Hope that helps. And forget about fitting an oil temp gauge, as i'm still searching for the correct adaptor...

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Zensoku

And forget about fitting an oil temp gauge, as i'm still searching for the correct adaptor...

I've got an oil temp gauge in mine (mechanical).

It was hard trying to find the right adaptor :D

What I did was I got a brass fitting from VDO that replaces the sump plug, then the temp probe fit's inside the brass fitting.

Now the tricky thing was that VDO don't make the correct thread size, so I bought the one that was a little bigger than the stock sump plug (I actually think it came with the gauge) and took it to a mechine show and they cut it down and put the correct thread on the fitting.

It worked like a dream. Make sure you get a gauge that has a long enough capilory (the 1.6 metre VDO isn't long enough :) ).

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...