Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got alot of parts for sale which i have accumulated over the years. Everything is in good working order unless stated otherwise. Located in Emerald, Victoria. Photos will be put onto photobucket

http://s160.photobucket.com/albums/t177/Shano3000/ will take photos of parts on request aswell.

Wrecking complete R33 GTS-T.

RB25DET Complete Engine 100,000km. Will include everything minus engine loom. Very good condition with stock turbo. Had its major service 3,000km before crashed. All belts, idler tensioner, water pump etc 3000km old. Was running fine after crash - $2000

Gearbox, good condition - $1300

3,000km old exedy heavy duty clutch - $150

Tailshaft - $150

Diff - $150

3" turbo Back exhaust. Bellmouth dump/front pipe into jasma muffler - $400

FMIC Return flow kit. Includes generic fmic with Blitz return flow piping and all clamps/joiners. No holes need to be cut - $300

Front brakes With rotors and pads. Pads still got plenty left. Good condition - $350

Rear Brakes with rotors and pads. Good condition - $150

2 X Starter motors - $50 each

Air Con pump - $50

2 X Gearbox Mounts - $80 each

Rear Axels - $50 pair

Rear bar painted white. Good condition. Appears to have been re-sprayed - $100

Rear bar Reo - $40

Boot lid with Series 1 spoiler - $50

Tail lights - $50 each

undertray stone guard. Has a few small tears - $40

Car mats. Complete set - $50

Drivers side Head light. Off a 4 Door, chrome surround. A little bit yellow. $50

Lots of other parts available. Just let me know what you want and ill get back to you with pics/price.

RB30DET Parts:

Rb25de non vct head from a R32. Head has been cleaned, new valve stem seals, heavy duty springs for turbo application and surface machined flat.

Inlet manifold, injectors and fuel rail, throttle body and all bolts/miscelanious pipes etc - $650

Good Condition S2 RB30 Bottom End, fully assembled. Brought as working motor and stripped head etc off - $75

Rb30 S2 block, disassembled. Includes crank, rods, cradle and block - 6 pack of Bundy

New ACL Duralite cast RB30e pistons and rings, 1mm oversize. Suitable for RB30DET conversion. Will give compression of around 8.3-1. $250

New ACL Duraglide engine bearings. to suit RB30. .25mm oversize. includes rod bearings. $50

RB30 complete engine gasket kit with Headgasket. No sump gasket included - $100

RB26 Oil Pump. Came off R32 GTR. $100

RB20DET Exhaust Manifold. Will bolt to Rb25de head. $40

Will post smaller items at buyers expense. Pickup only for gearbox, engine etc unless you organise everything and pick-up from my house. Contact through here, PM, or message/call me on 0422816780. Cheers, Shane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266117-wrecking-1994-r33-gts-t-victoria/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry mate, the boot carpet has been removed from car.

Also have:

R33 GTST Ball Bearing Steel Wheel Highflow - very good conditiong - $900

R33 GTST Stock Series 1 Turbo - Good condition - Has 1 snapped exhaust housing stud - $350

undertray stone guard. Has a few small tears - $40 <--- that the stone guard for underneath the engine.. would you happen to know if it will fit a 32gtr?

also do u have the rear seat belt covers available... the little cover surrounding the seat belts on the rear panel where the seat belts come out from

Can I offer $400 for

Rb25de non vct head from a R32. Head has been cleaned, new valve stem seals, heavy duty springs for turbo application and surface machined flat.

Inlet manifold, injectors and fuel rail, throttle body and all bolts/miscelanious pipes etc - $650

I do not want the inlet manifold, Injectors, throttle body, and bolts \ pipes.

Just the head.

If the fuel rail is the same as the R33 Turbo rail I'll take that though.

Let me know.

after the dash pad (upper part of dash) if it is available and able to be sent. Let me know a price includng estimated delivery and ill see if i can afford it at the moment lol

Pics as well please

Thanks

Worped - 1 Front shock is bent other is good, KYB. Rear shocks are in OK condition, with lowered springs.

Hypnotik - Will take pics now and put em on my photobucket.

Benzino33 - Pics of FMIC are in my photobucket link.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...