Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you unplug the NVCS, you should notice the difference when you are driving. It comes on around 1200rpm and cuts out at around 4200 from memory on an R33 - so you lower/midrange will feel alot more sluggish.

The best way would be to put the car on a dyno and look at the power curves with it plugged in and without.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26619-how-to-test-nvcs/#findComment-562846
Share on other sites

Hi, Steve

I won't have dyno access till some time next month, so I may try to drive with the NVCS plug in or out, where should I look at for the NVCS plug? I will unplug it and drive to see if I can pick up the difference..

I keep the stock cam gear (but with tomei 264 shaft).

thanks

Originally posted by Steve

If you unplug the NVCS, you should notice the difference when you are driving.  It comes on around 1200rpm and cuts out at around 4200 from memory on an R33 - so you lower/midrange will feel alot more sluggish.

The best way would be to put the car on a dyno and look at the power curves with it plugged in and without.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26619-how-to-test-nvcs/#findComment-562931
Share on other sites

Steve

I am preety sure the NVAC kicks in from 5000rpm all the way to redline, which is the thing that gives u the nice push back in your seat at high revs.

Sidewaymambo

If u put new intake cams in you might have disabled the NVAC, but with the Tomei procams they are still meant to retain it.

Even if it has disabled it with 264 duration cams u should feel more power and torque through the midrange coz the stock cams are only 256 duration.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26619-how-to-test-nvcs/#findComment-571186
Share on other sites

it is designed to give more torque at lower revs as most turbo engines have lower compression and have relatively retarded ignition timing to compensate for the turbo boost, thus reducing lag.

therefore it should come in early in the rev range and cut out around when the turbo kicks in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26619-how-to-test-nvcs/#findComment-571873
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...