Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just gave my 33 a little fang up the street with a on spot u-turn and wen i got to the end of the street i notice that there was more noise coming from the engine bay... it seems like the fan is working harder or spinning more if that makes any sense... it is normal when the car is idling but if the rpm rises so does the fan noise or the fan rpm.... just sounds like this massive V8 roaring down the street with a huge as fan... not a rathered refined 6cyclinder turbo...

i didn't know wat to search for so yeah sorry guys...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26645-fan-problem-help/
Share on other sites

AFAIK, the fan on R33 has a viscous type centre, so the fan should only work when the centre warms up. these centres can die.

As an option (if you have the dollars, I dont know how much a stock fan will cost) buy a twin thermo fan set up from a dismantler, and have that fitted instead. It will need to be adapted, but will give you more power (less load on the crank) and better cooling.

they can be bought from as little as $85 dollars, perhaps less. Go into a radiator shop, they should be able to hook it up with a thermostat to only run when the car gets hot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26645-fan-problem-help/#findComment-562913
Share on other sites

the fan always spins.

the skylines have what they call CLUTCH fans.

it should spin faster with the revs when it gets hot.

It is normal for them to seize up.

You can get a scond hand one from the wreckers for $50 or a brand new one for $150 (these prices are for the clutch part only)

when asking for it, you need to ask for a VL commodore one.

they are identical.

Thermo fans are the other option but it requires some fiddling to get them fitted properly over your radiator and connect up a thermostat and so on.

There are only 4 bolts to take off to remove the the whole fan assembly off your water pump.

then another 4 bolts (I think) to take the fan off the clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26645-fan-problem-help/#findComment-563024
Share on other sites

they run but they are sort of passive.

the fan always spins, but when it gets hot, the fluid in the clutch bit makes the plates grap and it turns as fast as the crank does.

normally, when it's hot, you accelerate and you can hear it howl with the revs until about 4000rpm, you hear the fan sound die down.. but it still spins.. just not at the same speed as the crank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26645-fan-problem-help/#findComment-563166
Share on other sites

yeah mine can be turned BUT WITH SEVERE FORCE and only abt 3 cms each way.... so i guess that means that the clutch fan has chucked in ay... damn... there goes another $100 wasted... would've been good to use that to buy a case of beer for u guys... thanks heaps for the help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/26645-fan-problem-help/#findComment-564237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...