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Just had a new brand spanker gearbox installed last week, a late model R33 Pull type, into my early R32 GTR.

Was apparently easy as pie to swap the new box from pull, back to push.

Also at the time had the following done:

1. check & reseal transfer case, and attessa actuator, new transfer fluid (Motul synth ATF)

2. rebuilt tailshaft, rebuilt centre bearing and new CV at the rear, rebalance

3. rebuilt driveshaft from transfer case to front diff (2 joints)

4. new diff oil (Motul Gear Competition 75W140)

5. Castrol Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox, as run-in for 500kms, then switching to Motul Gear 300 75W90

My question is this - when I first got the car, the rear diff would be clunky when you did low-speed high-lock driving - eg carparks.

I have not recently noticed this as much. Note that I have always had synth fluids in the gears and diffs and are changed regularly (less than 10,000kms).

Now that all the drivetrain is rebuilt or new, it seems to be clunky alot more. Is this a "good thing" in that it is all now tight? I'm guessing so.

The new box feels nice, but is still notchy. I guess that's what you get with an old agricultural box like these!

cheers

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  • 1 month later...
Just had a new brand spanker gearbox installed last week, a late model R33 Pull type, into my early R32 GTR.

Was apparently easy as pie to swap the new box from pull, back to push.

Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box?

The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting.

any help appreciated.

it may feel a lil bit notchy because ur clutch isnt adjusted properly i had the same thing with my gtst.... im unsure if gtr have adjustable pushrods from the clutch pedal but it may need just a lil extra travel added to the pedal cuz sumtimes u may be lazy and not push the pedal the whole way down.... just a suggestion see how it goes etc

Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box?

The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting.

any help appreciated.

IIRC the push or pull clutch is determined by the bellhousing, and you can swap bellhousings between gearboxes. Push is a backwards step and can be unreliable with a strong pressure plate spring - i think the pivot can break. You should be able to find this with searching, my memory is shot.

5. Castrol Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox, as run-in for 500kms, then switching to Motul Gear 300 75W90

<snip>

I have not recently noticed this as much. Note that I have always had synth fluids in the gears and diffs and are changed regularly (less than 10,000kms).

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff.....

You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff.....

You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

yep, you're probably right, Adam.

it's more just to make sure there is no machining swarf etc left in the new box

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