Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got my mines chipped ECU for sale which i used in my AUTO - this will suit both manual and auto series 1 r33's, im not sure if it works on series 2.

Specs are:

- Removed rev limiter

- Richer maps to handle hiflow turbo + breathing mods + ~15psi boost. AFR's were at 11.8-12 on boost and ~15.1 AFR cruising.

- Annoying boost cut/r&r removed. I'd log a 5.1v @ 4500rpm and it wouldnt even hesitate to rev.

- would give me 460km to the tank +/-30km depending on how i drove.

Im after $300 + post. by far the BEST bang for your buck mod - you'll notice the power difference instantly even on a standard setup.

I can be contacted via PM or post here.

Pics will be up soon.

Cheers,

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267051-mines-ecu-for-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

not sure on an actual figure mate but i would estimate around 210-215kw when i was running around 10psi, i cant comment on 15psi as i wasnt getting traction at all but it felt awesome. believe me, if you had this in your car you would be confused as to why these things are going for so cheap!

not sure on an actual figure mate but i would estimate around 210-215kw when i was running around 10psi, i cant comment on 15psi as i wasnt getting traction at all but it felt awesome. believe me, if you had this in your car you would be confused as to why these things are going for so cheap!

Yeah mine has 201kw with standard ecu and injectors on 13psi, did yours have bigger injectors with the mines ecu?

And wats the go if u wanna go run 18psi with this ecu, is there much stuffing around?

where ur location?

sydney west

Yeah mine has 201kw with standard ecu and injectors on 13psi, did yours have bigger injectors with the mines ecu?

And wats the go if u wanna go run 18psi with this ecu, is there much stuffing around?

nah mate it had standard injectors. to boost it up to 18psi you wont need much work - just turn up the boost lol.

either way i wouldnt do more than what i said in my first post without getting on a dyno and checking that your AFR's are ok.

im interested. Is it good @ fuel and air flow tuning?

read my first post mate, all the info is there. its not a tuneable computer hence the reason why its so cheap. you just plug it in and off you go.

if you wanted to tune it you'd strap a emanage blue or ultimate to it and you'll be sweet. it will still cost you less than getting a full aftermarket computer if you wanted to go bigger injectors etc etc later on.

I've got my mines chipped ECU for sale which i used in my AUTO - this will suit both manual and auto series 1 r33's, im not sure if it works on series 2.

Specs are:

- Removed rev limiter

- Richer maps to handle hiflow turbo + breathing mods + ~15psi boost. AFR's were at 11.8-12 on boost and ~15.1 AFR cruising.

- Annoying boost cut/r&r removed. I'd log a 5.1v @ 4500rpm and it wouldnt even hesitate to rev.

- would give me 460km to the tank +/-30km depending on how i drove.

Im after $300 + post. by far the BEST bang for your buck mod - you'll notice the power difference instantly even on a standard setup.

I can be contacted via PM or post here.

Pics will be up soon.

Cheers,

Joe

Is it still for sale?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...