Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would appreciate it if one of you photoshop gurus could shop some R34 GTR wheels on this R33 pic.

It's not my actual car, but it's exactly the same model/colour as mine, just without the stocko wheels. I don't have a good side-on shot of mine at the moment.

Feel free to stick on any other wheels you thing would look good as well if you feel like it, I'm kinda struggling with the amount of wheel choices that are around these days.

Would also be interested to see how something in black or white would look if someone has the time.

Thanks muchly.

JD

post-13979-1241087428_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267829-r33-gtr-photoshop-request/
Share on other sites

had a quick go at it.

Not perfect but you get an idea.

post-46584-1241155858_thumb.jpg

Nismo LMGT4 wheels.

Looks the best IMO, well certainly a lot better then BBS wheels (Damn I hate BBS wheels!) :banana:

As for the R34 GTR wheels on a R33 GTR = Looks weird.

Thanks for that, they don't look half bad...

Not a big fan of the BBS either, but I didn't have many side-on shots to choose from, and they just happened to be on that car.

Didn't realise the 34's would look weird on a 33 - is it just that they "don't look as though they belong"? See lots of 33's on 32's, so figured it might look ok.

Thanks again for doing the Nismos. :P

LOL!

Actually... Here is a pic of my friend Tim, SAU Member Tim GTR, R33 GTR Veilside Combat R with R34 GTR wheels.

Weird was probably the wrong word to use...

Lets just say I would picked another style of wheels before the R34 GTR ones anyway...

post-46584-1241173169_thumb.jpg

IMO since the R33 is a lot rounder in shape then the R34, you need thick spoke wheels like Nismo's / Volk TE 37's / Veilside Evolution V or Work Meister's to top it off... It gives the car a very aggressive stance!

Yep, I can see what you mean - the thicker spokes do look better on the fat girls :blink:

Do you know if the LMGT4's come in anything not quite so.....chrome?

I've seen the TE37's before, but not those particular Veilsides or Works you mentioned, off to have a look now.

LOL! :blink:

Hell no! No Chrome! Yuck! The wheels I photoshopped on your Blue R33 GTR are silver... They just look very shiny.

:)

Nismo LMGT4's come in Silver, Gun Metal Grey, White, Black and Bronze.

post-46584-1241181791_thumb.jpg

Silver

post-46584-1241182216_thumb.jpg

What looks to Gun Metal Grey...

post-46584-1241181032_thumb.jpg

White

post-46584-1241181846_thumb.jpg

Black

post-46584-1241181605_thumb.jpg

Bronze

post-46584-1241182271_thumb.jpg

Veilside Andrew Racing Evolution V

post-46584-1241182432_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1241182440_thumb.jpg

Fat ass deep lip.

I think better on old school cars.

post-46584-1241182554_thumb.jpg

post-46584-1241182812_thumb.jpg

TE 37's / Top Secret Gold TE 37's / Polished Lip TE 37's / Time Attack TE 37's (Black wheel with Red colour lip).

Rota GTR (P45) 18x9.5 in bromzr or gunmetal or white

Failing that ROTA grid 18x9.5 or 18x10 in the same colours

Rota are also bringingout the GTR in 19x10 et20 !!!!!!!!

For those who dont know the GTR is a exact copy of the nismo LM4 wheel

J

JD R33,

Since you got a blue R33 GTR, if you go with White LMGT4 wheels, it will give you the "National Skyline" Colour / Theme.

Blue Skies (Blue Car), White Clouds (White Wheels)... In the sky... Skyline... For some reason I remember reading that somewhere...

The Traditional Japanese Racing Colour is White.

Hence why all the R32/R33/R34 GTR N1's (N1 = Race Engines) only came out in Cristal White.

  • 4 weeks later...

id prefer the lmgt4's and the volk te37's, they are the best rim by far.. as they look awesome on gtr's and are super light wieght.

only bad thing is that they are very expensive :(

other wise id have some on mine lol..

  • 2 weeks later...

As SKYLINE said, the R33s have a rounder appearance compared with the R32 / R34, and with the flared arches of the GT-R, I think something with a bit of dish is nice and aggressive. The R34 rims on KR4-GTR look awesome too (particularly in that colour), but I like a little bit of dish...

Here is a pic of mine with some Volk RE30s I bought from another member here- let me know if you want to hit him up for a deal on some JDM wheels.

0812_GT-R_29.jpg

0812_GT-R_07.jpg

Thanks for the pics Matt, the Volks look great on your GTR.

I had pretty much decided on a set of the 18x9.5 LMGT4's in white, only to find out that Rays are out of stock and apparently not planning to make any more :P

I can only get them in bronze or silver, and the stocks of silver are almost all gone. The guys at Performalink can get me a set of the silver wheels spray painted white by the factory for an extra $400, not sure if the end result would be as durable as the original white versions from the factory though.

I could always go with copies like the Rota's, but would have really liked the JDM's.

God I hate choosing wheels..........

I just got some 2nd hand LMGT4. If you have the money, go for TE37 with 10.5 wide, they look even better than the LMGT4. But having said that, they're both priced about the same brand new so if I'm looking for brand new wheels, it'll be TE37 18x10.5 +22. Here a photo which made me want a white on white car (TE37 featured).

post-42920-1244688089_thumb.jpg

This is how the my car looks like now with LMGT4(will update the garage with more photos maybe tomorrow or tonight if you wanna have a look). Cheers!

post-42920-1244687466_thumb.jpg

Edited by Brandon

Nope. Go to the official Ray's Engineering website for the complete list of offset and width. They've got the full list of compatible cars for all the offset (you cant go wrong that way). Basically the TE37 and LMGTs have their spokes more concave which clears the Brembos. If I remember correctly, all the offsets and width of these 2 rims will fit the GTR and the wider it is, the deeper the dish (widest you can go for LMGT is 9.5 and 10.5 for TE37, hence I recommend TE37).

I thought the LM or 400R came with LMGT2 as stock?

Edited by Brandon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...