Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, baby on the way so unfortunatly need to sell the car and get a 4 door of some sort.

Quick bit of history and info on the car, I bought it off an older guy who used to import jap cars. He had only used it to literally drive around the corner to work and back each day. Since importing the car at 110, 560kms he had clocked up just 520kms on it. At this point the car was dead bone stock not one thing on it. I bought the car and since then added full HKS exhaust, HKS filters, Tein HA suspension and a mines 320km speedo. Also took it to a mechanic who checked over the car and said its the best alround condition R32 he had seen for the kms ever which I was very surprised at as I was expecting a long list of problems. Since then I have only added 17" x 9.5 rims and have put 20,000kms on it, alot of driving from GC to brisbane. The only problems with the car is it was nudged from behind at traffic lights last year so needs new reverse light, and the bumper tidied up a little bit, also a drunken idiot decided he was jealous and threw a bottle at the car which nipped the rear left quarter panel before the rear bumper where there is a dent and cracked paint.

Engine wise, the car is fine however needs new coil packs installed as I presume they have never been changed. Other than that, a mint Silver gtr, interior is great too. I will put pics of interior up and damage, however viewing will show you the real condition

If I cant sell it here to a good skylines australia member I will just keep the thing in the garage to play with.

Mods:

HKS Hi-Power(not silent hi power) Cat-back exhaust

Hi flow cat

HKS Downpipe

Tein HA Coilovers

17" x 9.5 Custom gloss and matt black wheels (will need new tires in a couple months)

Mines 320km

Kansai HKS ECU

Full Sound system, sony head, 12" sub, amp, fronts, rears. Nice clean sound

Needs:

Rego

Coilpacks

Market value is around $17500 however due to the few small faults I am open to any offers and can do a deal with everything fixed and regoed if needed for the right price. Just mail me if interested, cheers

post-52438-1241255424_thumb.jpg

post-52438-1241255437_thumb.jpg

post-52438-1241255448_thumb.jpg

post-52438-1241255463_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268099-bnr32-gtr-silver/
Share on other sites

This is on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...E:X:SCO:AU:1123

Apparently looking at your feedback on Ebay you sold it for $12,253.46 to someone and asked for more money even though someone had won your no reserve $1 starting auction.

pm me your phone number as I am the person you have sent a second chance offer on the car. Interested if you are legitimate to the price offered....

Edited by OS30GK

Hi mate, the reason the sale on ebay didnt go through is I decided to keep the car because im staying in oz now. Im not advertising it anywhere else apart from here as Im not in any type of hurry to sell the car anymore as originally I was to move back to nz, now im staying. I told the guy im keeping it unless he wanted to pay alot more than 12k, understandably he got pissed off. Bad luck

The second chance offer should have an added comment saying am taking serious offers? Apparently I cant reply your pm because I need to make more than 10 posts.

To clear it up for anyone else. As of now im taking offers. Make one if your interested

Cheers

i am wondering whether you are a genuine seller or scammer... Your feedback on Ebay states that you sold this car and then asked for more than the final bid amount upon the auction ending. If you didnt receive enough bids to hit your personal reserve why would you let it end with someone winning... Then a month later send me a second chance offer for $6899. You cant send out offers unless you personally click the button to activate messages being sent out. So, are you genuinely trying to sell the car? Or are you trying to get people to make deposits and take off...?

Seems suss.

Secondly, people are rather desperate at the moment for money due to the bad economy, its not unheard of for people to be selling ridiculously cheap.

1 R32 GTR sold in WA for $4k 2 months ago with rear quarter panel damage due to the seller being desperate.

Read my post at 11:09, your 44 years old and your on a skylines forum, you should know by now $6800 for a mint r32 gtr is NOT a 'serious' offer.

Huh?

Click on the link a few posts back to YOUR auction on ebay!!! Yours or not?

"Buy it now" for approx. $6800? Yes/no?? Am I going blind? Am I NOT seeing this auction? It is there isnt it? Years of alcohol hasnt masked my sight that much has it?

You put this auction together, or your account has been hacked? Which is it? Report it to ebay then?

Very strange, the whole thing. Your 82% feedback speaks volumes also.

I cant understand why a second chance offer has been submitted to me by the seller if he is not intending on selling it for the indicated amount. Surely as the seller you would check the value you are offering it to a buyer before proceeding to send the offer off...

Feedback isnt the best either... Doesnt make sense.

Has till 9:29PM on the 6th of May this year to sell going by the auction page so it is still currently active...

rego plate is the same 898 KVA.

Answers? Don't even attempt the line of I accidently sent a second chance offer. You took 1 and a bit months to send it to me. If you didnt want the cash urgently for $6899 you would have atleast sent me a message stating a higher figure rather than send an actual Ebay binding contract of sale at $6899.

Ok, this has gotten stupid. I am not scamming, you can come view the car anytime you like, im sure I would really get away with taking off when everyone knows my rego details. Ive put the car up on this website hoping someone with atleast half a brain will make a common sense offer on the car.

Earth to Old man-And also blind man who has had too many years of drinking:

14 offers were made out to bidders, some were even $1000 offers. If you read my above reply it said I also left an additional comment for ebay users. Saying I am now taking serious offers.

You have now offered me 6900. NOW to finish this rubbish, NO I decline your offer of $6900. Im sorry for the confusion but it does not take a rocket scientist to figure out what I have said previously.

For anyone who has an offer and isnt going to waste time talking about ebay let me know. I will put up new pics tomorrow of the interior and of the damage, also I have re-painted the rims in matt black, spokes still gloss black.

0S30GK, you can go now. Your offer is denied you twit

For everyone else whos also finding this amusing, to clear it up, I sent out second chance offers to everyone who bid on the car. Ebay didnt allow me to change the amount that I offered them, so It automatically sends out their last highest bid on the car as the offer. I did this thinking surely people will read the comment at the bottom about taking any serious offers. Long story short, ebay is balls and people dont take it serious.

Any serious offers will be considered. And you are welcome to come view the car also. At your risk as "I may take off with your deposit"

For everyone else whos also finding this amusing, to clear it up, I sent out second chance offers to everyone who bid on the car. Ebay didnt allow me to change the amount that I offered them, so It automatically sends out their last highest bid on the car as the offer. I did this thinking surely people will read the comment at the bottom about taking any serious offers. Long story short, ebay is balls and people dont take it serious.

Any serious offers will be considered. And you are welcome to come view the car also. At your risk as "I may take off with your deposit"

Seems like that statement applies to you aswell.

If you read the ebay contract agreement, by sending out those 2nd chance offers you are accepting the low amount, if you wanted to send messages to the people who bid on ur car, u should have sent personal messages saying you are open to offers higher than x amount.

Youve shot yourself in the foot and ahve done the wrong thing on ebay.

Sorry mate but if you send out the 2nd chance offer, you are offering them the item at thier highest bidding price...

I hope no ones accepts otherwise they get a cheap gtr, contracts a contract :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...