Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sounds good Brad, bit of bad luck but sounds like you still had a ball.

I spoke to Brian tonight and he has e-mailed me through all the regs and paper work so i am going to try and make it to the Wakefield Park August 2nd and/or the Wakefield Park October 25th rounds.

Very excited. I will hopefully be in the combined sedans.

Chris you definitely need to give this a go next year, You to Ando i see you watching.

Yes watching and considering :P Just got to do the sums and see if it is a viable option this year... maybe try to get out there in Oct!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Im out for the 2nd August - I want to give OP GP a go as much as I can before it closes :D

Also the last round of MRA is in December at OP!

I actually spoke with Brian Walden, he called me today, so Im on the mailing list now for MRA :P

  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to bump this thread.. :P

Round 3 of the MRA Series is coming up on the 2nd August at Wakefield Park... Spots are going fast so anyone wanting to enter starting thinking about it now!

Please contact me if you want any further information or check out the website MRA Website

Great form of cheap fun motorsport!! Come on guys get into it!!!!! :)

Cheers

Jess

Cheers for bumping this up jess.

I just sent an email off regarding the regs / class eligability for my car ;)

No worries!!

If you dont get a reply back soon let me know and I can help you out getting the info!

What is the car by the way??? Do you have a cage in it...

yeah will do.

ts a r33 gtst - no cage as yet...I dont wanna get one yet untill i find out what I need

Just a bolt in half cage is surfice as you would be going into sportscars class I reckon .

"Roll cages must be fitted to all cars that are competing in a competition event. Alloy cages are acceptable on cars built prior to 2000 and cars built after 2000 will have to have a steel cage. Full roll cages are mandatory for the following classes. Sedans category all class’s. Mini category Group “N” class may run as a minimum requirement a half cage. Clubman class cars must have fitted a half cage with the main hoop above the driver’s head as a minimum safety requirement. "

Seat belts/harnesses are acceptable if presented with no tears, broken stitching or signs of stretching. Buckles must be in good working order and push button attachment type belts are not acceptable . Seat belts must comply with the FIA 8854/98 or SFI 16.1 A minimum of a three point harness is mandatory but a greater point harness is recommended. Seat belt anchorage points where the original manufacture pick up points are not used must have a plate size minimum 50mm x 75mm and 3mm thick

I wanted to do this round but theres a supersprint same day at OP GP which I cant miss!

Aww I know...So spewin its on the same day!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...