Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Swap For The Less Knoledgeable

Klymax

By Klymax,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Klymax Contributor

Klymax

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Sorry to post whats probably a simple question that I cant find in general searching. Though is there a thread or do you's know of many if any direct bolt in turbo's for a ER34, basically a replacement of stock that will simple bolt in without changing/adding lines and the dump pipe etc. The turbo doesn't have to be a huge power increase if any. Basically I'm looking for an option other then finding a stock one to high flow or pulling mine off to send it down south for X amount of time to be flowed and not having the thought in the back of my mind of fatally harming it.

any thoughts are appreciated.

Cheers

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
Posted
Hi guys,

Sorry to post whats probably a simple question that I cant find in general searching. Though is there a thread or do you's know of many if any direct bolt in turbo's for a ER34, basically a replacement of stock that will simple bolt in without changing/adding lines and the dump pipe etc. The turbo doesn't have to be a huge power increase if any. Basically I'm looking for an option other then finding a stock one to high flow or pulling mine off to send it down south for X amount of time to be flowed and not having the thought in the back of my mind of fatally harming it.

any thoughts are appreciated.

Cheers

There isn't really any direct bolt-in turbos available. I understand Hypergears and KKR's need slightly different lines. KKR's also use a V-Band exhaust outlet(Hypergears as well possibly). You will also need to find a pipe to replace the air outlet(turbo elbow). You could get one of the HKS or Apexi kits but you would be looking at $2500 minimum for these. Might be worthwhile looking at something secondhand but if your worried about a high flow then that may not be for you.

reNEGaDe88 Proficient

reNEGaDe88

Posted
Posted

You either have to get ur stock turbo high flowed. They machine out the housings and then put in bigger STEEL wheels. So you can run more boost reliably and flow more air. Hence make more power. But you loose responsiveness and get more lag. You can buy turbo kits like the HKS GTRS turbo kit for RB25DET for around 3000$. A highflo'd stock turbo will be 2000$.

Otherwise with most aftermarket turbos u need custom oil and water lines and custom dump pipes made up.

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
Posted
Cheers mate, that was exactly the information I've been looking for :P plenty of info on turbo's, their performance etc but I could never grasp the lines what fits what wont etc.

thanks again

No worries, I've just been though it all and lucked out and found a HKS2530 kit with everything except turbo elbow second hand. If you do decide to go the highflow route you might like to search for Hypergear on this forum, they offer highflows with a Garett 2871 turbine in it for about $1500 I think. With this highflow you shouldn't lose much response but will get the power gains of a usual highflow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...