Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry some of u guys feel that way... if someone shows up in a lancer i aint gonna tell em, sorry u can't come on the cruise..... it's each to their own as to wat car u drive. Still hope to see some of you there... just look out for me in my BOMB!

Pawley: still debating. i ring ya whenif i arrive. hope we dont have much trouble with the cops. its a long tow back to mt gambier. :D

Miss_Nismo: i guess pawley just has a thing for R33's. lol

Yep, I'm allergic to P-plater ****wits in VL commodores doing burnouts at the sart/meet points and playing silly buggers weaving in and out of traffic/speeding etc too. The likelyhood of one of them sideswiping me are vastly greater than if I was on an SAU cruise. And don't get me started about being stuck behind low-powered bombs going through the hills, where they stay near the centre line and won't let you pass, speed up for straights etc.

I think everyone has a right to go cruising, but when you mix high performance cars like most of ours, with lower performance n/a cars like most of PF etc. ppl, then you are asking for trouble, as we have different capabilities and attitudes. Also note that the majority of SAU ppl are older and have way more driving experience, so are less likely to do something stupid (and lose control) and take a heap of ppl out. I don't think I have ever been on a PF or 4,6 and rotor cruise where no-one has had an accident, and I remember last year a Supra ended up having a head-on and an Excel rolled on the same cruise. These were both P-platers if I remember correctly.

/end rant

its as if p platers think that holdens are the only cars ever made. im a p plater driving something differant and because of that i have to cop the shit from most of the VL's in town who say im stupid for getting a nissan............ what fools if only they knew what layed underneath there holden rocker cover. lol

anyway. il be able to tell ya weather im going by lunch tomorrow. if not hope ya have a good SAFE night.

Skipppy I'll hav the windows down, doors open, and 80s beats cranked at the meet spot ok, I'll be easy to find.

nightcrawler I totally agree with you. everyone is allowed to cruise, but I dont want to be part of somethin thats going to be ruined by one or more wanker drivers.

hehe yeah, sweeping generalisations aside. I know who is sensible, and who is not, and more importantly, when those that normally are sensible aren't being sensible to steer clear of them (*cough* Matty doing unintended 360s on Main North Road *cough*). Ummm is that clear as mud?

I know I am a very bad one to preach - but I like to think even when things go wrong I still have a pretty good idea what to and not to do.

Originally posted by TIMMMAYYY

dean your on your p's aren't ya? hehe.

umm NC you realise that missssscheeky is on her P's dont you lol... not 4 long though!!

**COUGH**

Timmy it took my 6 years but I hold a full licence thank you!!!

haha.. Im a hoon.. deal with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...