Finally!

[terry.m]

Hey all,

Well I finally received my R33 and have now had it for about a week. I am absolutely stoked with it. It's been a while since I drove one and I couldn't belive the effortless power...even in standard form (what my car is at the moment). 180km/hr @ 4900 rpm...piece of cake. I was really surprised to see a turbo timer and CD stacker in teh boot, 2 things that I didn't know about.

I have changed all the oils:

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40

Shell Fully Synthetic gearbox oil

Shell LSD Diff oil

I must admit, before I changed the gearbox oil, the shift from 1st to 2nd was notchy but OK. Now with the new oil it's REAL crappy. Once the gearbox warms up it's not too bad but still not acceptable in my book. Gathering from old threads, a lot of you have experienced the same problem. I was thinking about adding Nulon gear treatment before I change the oil again...Any Thoughts???

Some of you have commented about the oil pressure with Helix, I am happy with the oil considering the price, oil pressure is OK.

I have added new wheels and a K&N replacement filer. I think she needs a boost though, I'm getting used to the power already

[BuzLightyear]

I previously posted on this type of notchiness.... What I did was add oil stabiliser to the box (Lucas recommend 20% if the gearbox is not too worn) and it smoothed the box out nicely.

Others have used Redline Lightweight Shockproof oil. This is a bit more of an expensive way to go. Someone pointed out in reply to my post that oil stabilisers were just oil thickeners, but Redline is simply a thicker oil (80w120). Also, it was mentioned that oil stabiliser (Lucas) was subject to foaming, but at the end of the day, the quality of the gear shift is to a large degree a measure of how well the oil is working.

Teflon treatments such as Nulon and Slick 50 seem to worsen the gearchange as far as I'm aware because they work too well, thereby diminishing the effect of the synchro rings.

Try draining your oil and mixing a 20% mix with oil stabiliser and it will only cost you about another $20 bucks or so - definitely worked well on my box which was still notchy after a re-build.

Incidently, I've heard from a number of guys that the notchiness is not necessarily a reflection of the condition of the box. Mechanics I've spoken to say some gearboxes remain notchy no matter how carefully you re-build them.

[Sumo]

Do a few km's and your box will get better and better..... You dont notice the improvement straight up

Sumo