Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

im about to drop my engine back into my gtr - 26/30 build which means that my intercooler plumbing which runs to the intake plenum on the drivers & passenger side will ‘more than likely’ not marry up due to the difference in height @ 38mm (taller rb30 block).

I have an idea to cut my factory black rubber pipes somewhere in the middle, then add a similar diameter alloy pipe which would be 2inches in length to run inside the rubber pipes, fixed with 2 strong ‘t clamps’ – I can then adjust the length to suit!

What other ideas are out there which also work? It would be great if I could get silicone aftermarket intercooler pipes to suit the additional length :)

i was also advised to elongate the engine mount holes by 5mm so that the total height drop to about 33mm

don't mess around just get alloy pipe. if you pick up standard hard pipes the plenum side really just needs 38mm extra added in the middle and the turbo side needs a little bit of fiddling but any fabricator worth their weight can do it.

hi guys, dont think anyone on this site has mentioned this yet, if the rb26/30 is going in a 33 then get a 32 hard pipe hks etc, its a straight fit no alterations, the 32 hard pipe from wing-plenum is 38 mm taller than a 33 one. this only works fitting a 30 in a 33 shell bernie uk.

p.s i know i have done it..

hi guys, dont think anyone on this site has mentioned this yet, if the rb26/30 is going in a 33 then get a 32 hard pipe hks etc, its a straight fit no alterations, the 32 hard pipe from wing-plenum is 38 mm taller than a 33 one. this only works fitting a 30 in a 33 shell bernie uk.

p.s i know i have done it..

bernie,

i have an r32gtr :-(

  • 2 weeks later...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb....html&st=40

post 57 and post 59

No change to the intercooler plumbing either. But I used silicone joiners, maybe they were a little longer.

As previously mentioned, you will have to redrill the lower bell housing bolts, but that's a 5 minute job.

I didn't lengthen the dumps either, but they weren't standard ones.

I upgraded the sump (Performance Metalcraft) for GTR oil surge prevention.

Plus added an oil cooler, of course.

I also extended ther lower cam cover, so it met up with the standard RB26 top cover (keeps the rocks out)]

mmmmm my mistake though, thought he used the standard pipes

thanks steve - you're a legend for finding this :)

No change to the intercooler plumbing either. But I used silicone joiners, maybe they were a little longer.

this answers my question that silicone joiners will work if long enough - perfect info :)

can anyone tell me what the outside diameter of the intercooler hoses are?

~80 mm

But I find 3" (76.2mm) ID silicone hose works OK, stick it in some hot water and it stretches easily..

That gives an OD of the silicone hose of ~90mm, although some silicone hoses are bit thicker.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
×
×
  • Create New...