Jump to content
SAU Community

Another Rb20 Engine Upgrade


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am about to start a rb20det stroker project and i just cant seem to find what im looking for.

Heres a quick run down of what i have

RB20det- full engine just very worn out and smokie( but sorta still runs)

RB25det- crank, rods and pistons (A1 condition)

Rb25 head (complete) A1 condition..

I have read a lot of posts about people using RB25 Crank, rods and I think 4agze pistons to make an RB21 or RB23 im guessing, i cant exactly remember what combination that makes.

my questions are has anyone ever just gone all out using The full bottom end from an Rb25? and does that even work or be compatible?? an other idea i had was using the rb25 crank rods and Standard RB20 pistion

second question. i was also thinking of using the rb 25 head mainly because of the variable cam timing. is it easy to adapt? apart from what i can see an extra oil port near the front of the head.

i was just thinking of doing an rb25 conversion to my R32 but i cant let all these parts go to wast lol and i love engine project.

Third and final question. would anyone have a copy of a map i could use for this engine so once i do get it all complete, she wont run lean and melt.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't forget them. Have spent the better part of the last 2 years in Bunbury. Any longer and I would have to get one of each.
    • Hit it hard last night, was in the shed till 2:30am. Had to get everything ready to try fit engine today as neighbour is going away tomorrow. This happenned today      Was going smoothly, till it wasn't. Had to lower the sway bar, remove engine mounts to get the engine to its spot and then refit everything. Head drain also created some clearance issues but got there in the end. Some idiot put the drain return on the sump virtually where the engine mount is. Hose fits on but is less than ideal, going to have to revisit it and fit a 90° fitting. Had some hiccups last night too with getting the flywheel and gearbox on. Firstly forgot the sandwich plate, so had to remove clutch and flywheel again. Then gearbox went on smoothly but then realised new block has an alignment dowel in the same spot as gearbox. GB off again to remove said dowel. Cnut. Anyway, it's in now. AC and PS pumps refitted, tail shaft bolted up as well. Left to do is reconnect all harnesses and plugs. Looks like a big mess ATM. Fit dump pipe, radiator, shifter, intake piping and associated bits, air box fill, afluids and hopefully fire it up. Looks like couriers please has lost my break in oil again. Useless pricks. Looks like I'll just get whatever mineral oil is on special at super shit auto. Hopefully it will actually run after all this or I'm going to burn it, lol.
    • The genuine ones are a minimum of $95 each on amayama. Jesse Streeter just quoted me $190 each. I can get a set of 6 MSD for $470 on ebay.
    • You forgot jet ski's and neck tatts.
    • New Monroe OESpectrum shocks for the Honda have been ordered, the car actually handles well with the OEM shocks, but from pulling the wheels off for a good inspection of the brakes and bushings, the only issue I saw was that it still has the original shocks, and with 160k km on them they are well past their use by date Also, in other "kids these days" news, the airbox resonator is "in the bin", a little more induction noise down low free reving, but it sounds really good (growly) over 4k RPM on the road, worth while silly mod for 10 minutes of work and zero dollars Also the K&N filter for the OEM airbox arrived, whilst I didn't get it for performance, as it probably doesn't give any, it's more to save a few bucks replacing OEM filters every service, 3 filter changes and it has paid for itself I also picked up another 5 litres of HPR5 for another oil filter and some more engine flush, I'll give the last HPR5 and filter change 1k km to do it's thing then flush it all out again and stick the new stuff in, anal, but I feel it's always worth the effort when I get a "new old" car to really clean out its guts, and as the K series engines have a few internal mesh filter screens for the V-Tec thingie, as well as the usual one on the oil intake tube, it's preventative maintenance to keep the oily bits happy when I'm wringing it's neck The Bogan Cruise Ship might even come out from undercover this weekend for a cruise, weather permitting of course 
×
×
  • Create New...