Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest gtr_monster

USED BC Adjustable Coilovers to suit NISSAN SKYLINE GTST R33-34 height and damper ajustment.

asking $800 ono

located in newcastle nsw

BC - BR - Sports Adjustable Coilovers are a advanced well produced alternative to the many Brands in our market today sharing features much more advanced than the competion.The BR range is BC's Flagship Model range offering the ultimate in Performance and Reliability in our demanding Road conditions.

The BR Range Features a very large 53mm Piston Insert design unlike most of the alternatives being only 44mm. This larger design Piston contains more Lubricating oil slowing down the oil Temp Increase in Demanding road contions where the Piston is working very hard.All BC BR coilovers Have Visible Large Bump Stops and Piston Dust Boots

BC BR has 32 points of damper adjustments means you can fine-tune your vehicle for whatever the circuit calls for from Soft for street driving to Hard for track use. It can also be disassembled and rebuilt as well to meet with whatever the circumstances.Easy Damper adjustment with Twist dials from the top of the Suspension.

Cast Iron Lower Powder Coated mounts With Strengtheners are Used on All Mc Pherson Suspension Designs unlike Most of the Cheaper Alternatives using Aluminium which is a lot Weaker and prone to damage from Demanding driving,OE manufactures also use Cast iron as do BC for Road saftey Reasons.ABS and oil Line brackets are manufactured onto the BC lower mounts making driving a lot safer and Accident free plus also Hassle free installation.

"A" Frame Design Suspension like the Honda has Cut-out Design holes in the Mounts for ease of cleaning the insert Threads of Dirt and to View Safe and Precise Height Adjustments.

Coil Springs are High-Rigidity SA9254 Sports Springs that come Pre Loaded on Fully Assembled Coilovers.

Newly Designed Gold Lock Rings makes Adjustment a lot Easier over the common Aluminium which tends to be Chewed up after a couple of Adjustments.

L Shaped Plastic Spring Seats are Also used to prevent Friction between the Coil Spring and Lock rings Avoiding Coilbind Noise common when using the Cheaper Rubber spring seats in Cheaper Brands

Height adjustments to lower the vehicle up to 110mm lower than standard ride height( Depending on Application ) for better center of gravity or can be used and set at the OEM ride height.

BC BR uses Large Heavy Duty Pillowball top hats means camber adjustments can be adjusted at ease and is available for all car models that use Mc Pherson Style suspension,Where not applicable the standard top hats are used as in most European cars or comes with Solid Top plates and Hard Bushing. All kits come with a Tool bag which includes The Ring spanners For Height Adjustment All suspension units come with a 12 month Limited Warranty for replacement parts found to be defective, From Performance Guru within normal use and not road abuse , there after all parts can be sourced.Warranty is void if used for Track Racing. All BC BR Sports Adjustable Coilover units are TUV ISO 9001 : 2000 Approved ** LARGE 53mm Mono Tube Piston Design ** CAST Iron Lower Mounts With Strengtheners ** ABS and Oil line brackets Mounted in O.E Locations ** 32 points of Damper Adjustment ** Large Heavy Duty Pillowball Bearings ** Newly Designed Lock Rings ** Rebuildable

pics up tomorrow

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268753-r33-gtst-bc-coilovers/
Share on other sites

From the pics you showed me, i told you they look like BC to me. But they are not the BR series. They look to be the older BC type, with red collars.

The BR series have gold collars. like this

br-coilover-overview.jpg

From the pics you showed me, i told you they look like BC to me. But they are not the BR series. They look to be the older BC type, with red collars.

The BR series have gold collars. like this

So the 1's that GTR MONSTER is selling are either VS, VA, or VH Series?

Anyway GTR MONSTER put sum pics up mate or PM me sum, really keen!

my guess is they are VH

have a look here. http://www.bcracing-na.com/products/nissan.html

the last number on the spring is spring rate in kg. 12/6 for r33

i dont mean to get involved in this guy's sale thread, but i hate to see someone buy something under false pretense.

i was going to buy these when i thought they were pedders, till i saw the pics. hence my comments.

this is the type of thing you expect on Boostcruising, not SAU >_<

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
    • Thank you so much for the comments.  This is very interesting and gives me some great ideas to think about. Keen to keep it simple and relatively classic looking. That said, i am not too worried about staying 100% period correct.  A little extra performance and relatively good (or improved) economy is just what i am looking for. Ill be keeping any parts i swap out so if i get nostalgic i can always swap it all back in.  Right now just trying to get some good ideas from people in the know (I still have a lot to learn in this space). Thank you again!  
    • Wrt the engine, you're very much limited by 'production quality' as to how much extra power you can extract from them (I'm talking i6 red-motor) -- a lot here depends on how 'authentic' or 'period correct' you want the modifications to be... ...I'm too old... <grin>...the first true performance engine Holden made, was in the HD/HR models ~ this was the 'X2' performance pack...it came with twin downdraft strombergs on an otherwise unimproved intake manifold, with a two piece exhaust manifold (reckoned to be as good as extractors)... ....these engines were built upon the '179HP' cylinder block, which included extra webbing in the casting to make it stronger and less susceptible to block distortion... The next performance i6 came out with the HK Monaro (also found it's way into the LJ GTR Torana ... the car I wish I hadn't sold)...it had pretty much the same manifold setup, but was built against the '186S' block...this block retained all the extra webbing of the 179HP block, but added a forged steel crankshaft (instead of the stock cast crankshaft), because it was possible to snap the crank... ...apart from the inherent weaknesses in the stock (cast crank) blocks, the next limiting factor is the cylinder head porting & combustion chamber design, and the actual valve sizes. Back in the day, you could buy a 'yella terra' cylinder head (from stage 1 to stage 5 gradients), and this was the way to get serious power out of them -- with the extra breathing of these heads, you could fit a triple SU or DCOE Weber setup... ...obviously, these mods were a waste of time on a stock cylinder head/camshaft grind. My housemate rebuilt the i6 in his VH dunnydore about 6 months back -- this is a 186S block with the 12port 2850 blue motor head and intake/exhaust manifolds, with a dual throat Weber off an XF Falcon mounted on an adapter plate ; it's not a bad makeup...got more torque & fuel economy just light-footing it about on the first throat, but stand on it and it makes more giddy-up than the standard 2850 blue motor that it replaced. Personal note: I'd just fit an RB30 and be done it it 😃  
    • Thanks for sharing. That's a great video! My buddy is doing the same thing on his build (S chassis struts and towers). He's building an S14 with billet RB30 shooting for 2000whp... a race car with a TH400 just like this video. For a road car I just couldn't go this route as the strut has to be almost vertical and the caster is not going to pivot correctly (let alone camber gain). You think the R32 frontend is bad, wait till you put a MacPherson strut on without modeling it all in Solidworks to check geometry. I'm not saying it's a bad way to do it but I'd be really curious to see how it affects the geometry.
    • Hey Christof and welcome!  Sounds like an awesome project! I'm not sure many of the regular users on here would know much about the HK but I could be wrong.  Looking forward to updates.
×
×
  • Create New...