Jump to content
SAU Community

Shock Absorbers For R33 Skyline

Rev Head
 Share

Recommended Posts

Rev Head Newbie

Rev Head

Posted
Posted

I own a 1998 R33 Skyline 40th Anniversary model which has stock suspension. I love the car but most of my driving is on rural roads which are rough and the cars ride is a bit harsh particularly over patchwork repairs on the road.

I want to get a more compliant ride from the car. It has been suggested to me that I don't put coil overs on the car but retain the standard spring and put better quality shocks on the car.

I have been thinking about KYB adjustible dampers but don't want to fork out a whole lot of money then find that I don't get the result I am looking for.

If you can give me some suggestions or recommed a good suspension person it would be appreciated.

I thought it would be good to get some Skyline owners experiences before I commit to udgrading my suspension.

Thanks,

Brian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269502-shock-absorbers-for-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites
Cancerman Rookie

Cancerman

Posted
Posted

Bilsteins FTW!

Did a search in here and couldn't find one bad thing about them, so I decided to send my share of K Rudd's stimulus to Germany in exchange for a front pair. First thing I noticed was how the front just holds still (kinda hard to explain) and MUCH better ride even with the same springs compared to my old Nismo adjustables on ANY setting.

Takes speed bumps really well too. You'd be surprised how much discomfort is caused by the actual bouncing up over and down from the bump as opposed to just absorbing it.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

Go Bilsteins. Adjustable shocks, apart from Konis, are a waste of time because the adjustment is not accurate between the shocks so you'll end up with one side stiffer than the other for the same number of clicks on the adjuster. Guaranteed.

Girorostar Experienced

Girorostar

Posted
Posted

Sorry to hi-jack your thread but didn't wanna make a new thread with the same subject.

Does anyone know the KYB part number for r33 gts-t '96? I've been looking in their US and AUS catalog but cant find it, or is there another nissan car that have the same part number as skyline? I'm really lost, cant find the part number anywhere, I've even tried their JP website but that wasn't much help.

Thanks in advance for the input.

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
I can't say from first hand experience, but everything I've heard is that KYB shocks are the way to go.

they are a bit meh, koni yellows are a step up and bilsteins are another step up from that.

street car= bilstein + good springs IMO

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted
Go Bilsteins. Adjustable shocks, apart from Konis, are a waste of time because the adjustment is not accurate between the shocks so you'll end up with one side stiffer than the other for the same number of clicks on the adjuster. Guaranteed.

and this is only the beginning to the the issues associated with cheap adjustable shocks lol

gslrallysport Experienced

gslrallysport

Posted
Posted
and this is only the beginning to the the issues associated with cheap adjustable shocks lol

I'll be the first to say I thoroughly enjoyed the last thread about that! :/ Some absolute classic quotes!!! :)

Sticking to the 'known' brands (not so much specialised Japanese stuff), the price/performance index roughly goes:

- KYB

- Koni

- Bilstein

- DMS

It's a matter of how much money you've got as to how far up the list you go.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted (edited)

Jetpilot1986: to clarify - down that list is up in price/performance !

Bilsteins for R33 ~1100 a set (+springs) vs DMA coilovers ~3300 (50mm). I have bilsteins and they impress all who enter. you might actually cop some flack from your fully sick mates with coilovers. But when their rock hard car with 40rwkw more and 100kg less goes 3 seconds slower a lap with better tyres you've really got to wonder :rofl:

Edited by simpletool
Aidan Contributor

Aidan

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, am in similar situation. 96 R33 GTS-T. Looking for some nice smooth feeling shocks. If I go with the Bilsteins, should I stick with the stock springs or get new ones? I want a nice smooth ride but not too rocky around corners. I was going to get some Tein SS Coilovers with those EDFC things because it sounded cool but I figure if I can get a nicer feel for less, that'd be the best way to go. I'm a fairly "Spirited" driver but not interested in drifting or sliding.

I'd Like to keep it between 1-2k

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...