Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I just got a power FC put into my 33 GTR, however its just sitting loose there and you can hear it bouncing around whenever you hit boost or you go over speed bumps. i dont want to damage it and its also quite annoying.

can anyone please advise how they have mounted it? whats the best way!? apparently they dont have brackets -

i have tried velcro but you can still hear it shaking around side to side because the one part i can stick it onto is really thin.

would love to get some advice how did you guys do it? and do you have pics?

any help would be appreciated.

thanks all!

Hi mate I had the same problem in my R32, I tried the velcro it worked for a week or so but just kept falling off after that, so what I ended up doing is joining a few cable ties together and placing them around the PFC and through the standard bracket bolt holes and pulling it tight, if that makes sense.

Seems to work pretty good but took a bit of fiddling around to get it right, cable ties are dirt cheap anyway so its worth a try :)

My tuner used the high tech "stuff a rag in next to it" solution to stop it moving :)

I heard of another tuner using a folded up page torn from last month's workshop calendar, which provides the owner with the added bonus of a free picture of a girl with impossibly large breasts next time he takes his ECU out.

One of these days i'll pull the kick panel off mine and mount it properly.

Yeah mine's just tucked in there as well, but was tucked in quite well, haven't noticed it moving...

Weird how brackets don't really exist for it hey... :)

Might have to make some!

Take the back off the standard ECU with the mounts on it. Slot the holes slightly to fit the PowerFC case. Job done :)

hey guys, thanks for all of your replies.

i've still got the original mounting brackets, was thinking about it today - will probably just see if they fit width wise and if can tape it in or something.

i'll try and give it a shot tomorrow - will post results.

Edited by KR4-GTR

all done guys, i just redid the velcro with the hardcore GENUINE velcro stuff from bunnings.

also put a bit of the softer bits on the bottom sides of the power fc to pad it up and also stop it from rattling metal to metal.

its stuck on pretty hard - doesnt look like its going to move (touch wood)

attached a pic for those who are interested :)

cheers for all the help, reassurance and suggestions!

post-54322-1242303586_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...