Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

A few weeks ago I acquired a series one R33 GTS-T. She's done 92,000km and as I do with every car this age and lacking a service history, first order of business is a timing belt change. Have purchased idler, tensioner, belt and a waterpump. As I'm not too familiar with these engines just yet, I thought I'd ask if there was anything else at the front of the engine worth replacing while I'm doing this job?

On the side, and excluding traditionally serviceable items (filters etc.), are there any other electrical/mechanical parts that commonly wear out on these engines? I belong to a Calibra forum and one of the first things we tell new members to replace is the coolant temperature and oxygen sensors, because they deteriorate around this age and have adverse effects on performance/economy. I'm looking for things like that, and manufacturer faults. I don't believe in "don't fix what isn't broken" so I have no issue spending money on preventative measures. Have read through the general maintenance FAQ and service schedule too...thanks for posting that as I have no user or workshop manual :D

Thanks in advance.

P.S. What I do believe in is "if something is broken it's a sign you need to modify it" :P

sounds like your mechanically mind and have things sorted out.... but you can also check:

-replace O2 sensor (as you mentioned)

-clean the AFM wire with brake cleaner

-check coil packs for hair line crack and use silicon to fill out - to reduce miss fires

-clean the idle control unit

-not engine related, but check caster rod bushes for leaks

I can upload the r33 service manual if you like? 23mb pdf file

Thanks for the suggestions, I was thinking along those lines. If it's not too much trouble and it hasn't already been uploaded, that would be fantastic.

Your R33 looks exactly like mine :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...