Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I got my new aluminium bushes and wouldnt reallly know how im meant to install them.

Who has done it before and wants to help a brother out, I'm sure I could pull out the whole subframe and spend 6 hours doing it, but i'd just rather not.

Can shout beer or whatever you take for assistance :P

Let me know and that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/269937-whos-free-this-weekend/
Share on other sites

Nah was not ignoring you at all.

As i sent the reply the computer system here went wierd....we lost heaps of stuff :D

I dont have your orignal message any more but from what i remember:

Lock ring fitting $110 approx

Wheel Alignment (4 wheel) $88.

So can anyone give me a quick rundown of what I need to do?

Drop the subframe, Wrestle with strange bits of rubbbber/silicon filled bushes till they come out.

Place top part of metal bushing in, put back on car, put bottom bit in, bolt up tightt till bush clicks into place ?

Let me know how far off I am :P

What parts do you have exactly? Just the 4-8 lock rings or the subframe bushes aswell?

To solve confusion, why not bring the car and the parts to me today or tomorrow and we can put it on a hoist and ill try to show you waht needs to be done.

they dont replace the bushes, they help compress them, 15 year old bushes dont hold very well.

4 solid rings go underneath, 4 split ones go above, some people leave 2 front or 2 rear out for squat/anti squat but id just put em all in :P

there are some writeups on nissansilvia.com but i dont know how similar the skyline subframe bolts etc are, they would probably give some guidance though

they dont replace the bushes, they help compress them, 15 year old bushes dont hold very well.

4 solid rings go underneath, 4 split ones go above, some people leave 2 front or 2 rear out for squat/anti squat but id just put em all in :P

there are some writeups on nissansilvia.com but i dont know how similar the skyline subframe bolts etc are, they would probably give some guidance though

The same as silvia's basically.

No Link?!

Main reason I was putting them in is one of the silicon filled bushes at the front has let go.

Should I replace the bushes as well then, or is it not going to matter once they are compressed?

shouldnt matter but im no expert, ask the wa suspension guy lol

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=219117

found the link!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...