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RB20DET Knocking.... Help Please

5 litre eater

By 5 litre eater,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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RaseR Collaborator

RaseR

Posted
Posted

Hey Dr_Drift,

Mutterings about rebuilt motors and microtech ecus give me the feeling you'll be seeing that FJ powered 'line again in not too long!! :D

An SR20 powered Datto 1600?! NIIIICE! Decided against the CA18 u mentioned when we came in then?

Just tried the ECU diagnostic test on my R32 btw...the 'All OK' code 55 flashed up so could it possibly be blocked injectors as WazR32GTSt suggested? Finally do BMT clean injectors, if so - how much approx? If not, know of anywhere I can get it done?

Thanx!

MM2death Grand Master

MM2death

Posted
Posted
MM2death - Do a search on 'diagnostic' should find the answers there.... If not I'll type it out for ya...

ECU diagnostic

Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing.

Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!) If your ECU doesn't have a diagnostic mode screw, use the diagnostic connector to enter the diagnostics mode.

For one LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter-clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2.

Note - the engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer.

The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit, eg long, long, short = code 21.

Codes:

11 Crankshaft position sensor

12 MAF sensor circuit

13 Coolent temperature circuit

14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit

21 Ignition circuit

31 ECU

34 Knock sensor

43 Throttle position circuit

45 Injector leak

51 Ignition circuit

54 Auto signal to ECU

55 All OK

Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal.

Is this correct? I have never done this before.

Thanks,

Scott

RaseR Collaborator

RaseR

Posted
Posted

Hey MM2Death,

That's the procedure I used to test my R32 GTS-t, to get to the selecter/LED you have to actually unscrew the ecu from the car body and remove it from its mounting location as it is on the side you can't see (typical!)

There is however an easier way, which I tried first and didn't realise till later was actually working....If you pull the fuse box lid and look right up into the top of it, you'll see the Consult connecter. There are two pins you can short out with a bit of wire for two seconds then when you remove the wire it will put the ecu into diagnostic mode, check this link:

http://www.powerlink.co.nz/~graeme/faq/15.html

I found on my R32 however that the Consult connecter was rotated 180 degrees as compared to the one shown in the link above, with the two pins being on the top right hand corner....wierd. The 'cat temperature light' will flash out the trouble codes - I expected the ECU light to do this, when I saw the cat light flashing at first it didn't click what it was doing - LOL!

Hope this helps,

Dave.

RaseR Collaborator

RaseR

Posted
Posted

Hey Scott,

No probs man - Another cool thing to note is that upon completion of the ECU diagnostics (ie. turning off the ignition), the ECU is also reset. This is cool because you don't lose your radio stations etc as you do when you disconnect the battery and no need to remove interior panels (well except the fuse panel....) and no having to fiddle with the ecu like the usual diagnostic method.

Post your ecu diagnostic results when you have time! Mine came up fine (Code 55), but then again my cold starting issues are hardly what you'd call bad as yet.

Dave.

MM2death Grand Master

MM2death

Posted
Posted

OK i've just done it. Code 55 is what i got. So that doesn't tell me much about my problem with cold starting...lol

Oh and my connector was in the same position as yours. The terminals to short are in the top right.

One more thing, i just noticed that my fuse panel ain't full...a few were missing....is that normal?

Regards,

Scott

RaseR Collaborator

RaseR

Posted
Posted

Hey Scott,

Interesting - the connector in that diagram must've been for an R33. Mine has 4 empty fuse holders on the LHS of the panel and a couple missing along the bottom. My theory is that these are just extras for features either not present in the car or not even implemented.

But no, it doesn't help much with the cold starting issues at all, it would seem that the diagnostic mode really doesn't supply enough information about the vehicles sensors for this kind of problem, it was worth a try though!

Check this, interrogating the consult port using a laptop computer.....No official skyline version as yet though:

http://300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult/

Looks so cool, you can view all the detailed sensor data in real-time, apparently it unofficially works on other Nissans but even if it did work - it costs $600AUD....Probably more then taking the car to be fixed!! :)

cya,

Dave.

Ahh32 Proficient

Ahh32

Posted
Posted

firstly: i just did the diag. and got code 54. Now my car is a manual but it has an Auto ECU (1/2 cut), i don't now if this would affect my car or not but. My 'line is sluggish but when warm (cold start issues), but when warm runs fine till start boost at 5000rpm (3037s) then it just

bangs and kinda backfires and doesn't go anywhere. I just put this down to a nearly stuffed motor as is pisses oil out of the breathers for the tappet covers. But occasionally it runs fine (full boost) in a couple of gears, usually at cold amb. temps.

Secondly: I use to work at a nissan dealership, and the nissan consult II does work with the R32 skyline at least.

5 litre eater Collaborator

5 litre eater

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys,

Just a quick update on the original problem, the car is running SO much better now, but i am still having the cold start problem, and now it's getting worse. It takes at least 4 turns of the key and constant pumping of the gas to get her started. I'm going to try changing the spark plugs, if that doesn't work, i'll try the fuel pump (it's standard, so it needs doing anyway).

And if that does nothing, i'll try the started motor... (Again, i don't know much about engines, but is there a starter motor? I heard someone talk about it in their VN commie...)

I'll keep you all posted

Matt.

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