Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well soon i will be having a few months stint with footpower, and so the skyline is getting a bit of a make over i have interior organised panel and paint and suspension and wheels, been reading up tonight and i have been in formed not to turbo mine (dont ask) as i will lose my lisence and car as soon as its all done and i get back on the road, so was jsut wondering would it be worth building a high comp rb30 motor with the 25 head mated to it, acl pistons and rods bored decked head cams hypertune manifold and so on, is it really worth the hassle and is there gains to be had if built right?

car is staying the same colour putting work meshies on it stripping out reear seat bolt in cage seems rediculous yes indeed but horses for courses, and what can be done about my diff gears? they are way too tall for an n/a motor, think that the 200kw mark can be made achievable, i know this question is asked alot and my apologies for this but anyones input would be good?

cheers luke.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270971-is-it-worth-it/
Share on other sites

Well 200rwkw is achievable yes, but at a price.

Personally i would find the nearest bridge and throw that head off it has hard as I could. There are more gains to be had with a 26 head for only a few $100 more.

If that 25 head hasn't got VCT then you should be ok but you'll never be able to run as big a cam in the 25 head then what you can in the 26 head without changing the head to a solid valve train (Which is what the 26 head comes from factory) and that is where basically the majority of the power will come from.

I could have bought a V-Spec 32 GTR for the money that I've spent on my motor so far, If you are mechanically minded it'll be quite cost effective and how far you go with the build (i.e. complete rebuild or just slap some parts together and hope for the best.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270971-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-4606803
Share on other sites

yeah it does seem like alot of hassle jsut to have something thts not as common doesnt it, building it and doing all the work is no problem apart from machining of the block, jsut dont want to pour a whole lot of cash into it and regret it later which i most probably will...although it will be a whole different car, really i know this will sound stupid but something tht will atleast spin in second not first and then die, and thts not going easy on it thts sitting it off limiter and dumping it. i know that i could buy something like a commodore and make more power but a commodore jsut does not offer the same handling as a skyline does, and the only other car i will buy next if i dont do this will be crossing back to my roots a rotary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270971-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-4606828
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...