Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick guide on how to install one of these.

post-27730-1242972064_thumb.jpg

These are the terminals for the wires I spliced into.

post-27730-1242972157_thumb.jpg

I just used the wire clips that came with the light.

The Green factory wire was 12v Ignition.

post-27730-1242972338_thumb.jpg

The Yellow with Blue tracer is Tacho signal.

post-27730-1242972381_thumb.jpg

Tested all ok before putting dash back together.

Mounted using 'Old Faithful' double sided tape.

post-27730-1242972493_thumb.jpg

Only needed to be calibrated up one point.

Works a treat.

post-27730-1242972567_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271254-installing-ecliptech-shift-i/
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

Nice review ! I'm glad you found the installation so easy and simple. Thanks for taking the time to write a review like this.

These are the terminals for the wires I spliced into.

post-27730-1242972157_thumb.jpg

Is that photo of the back of your instrument cluster on your dash ?

What value did you use as rpm calibration? I think I had to use 4 solid lights (or was it 4 blinking lights)

I thought the calibration was ok, but i drove it to work today

and it seems a bit off.

I'll recalibrate it on my next day off and see how it goes.

  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
Yeah that's the back of the cluster.

The tacho signal is marked TAM.

Hey guys,

I'm trying to hook up my Shift Light in my R33 GTS-T... There is four wires for the it RED +, BLACK -, GREEN (RPM), YELLOW (Light)

I'm all good with the RED and YELLOW but i just need to know if I use the TAM screw on the back of the cluster with the GREEN wire and the BLACK to the ground screw will that work...?

Has anyone done it...?

ShnaneosR33... which shift light is this you are trying to hookup?

I would have expected the black, red and green all you would need. Unsure what the yellow (light) is for. Check the instructions for what it does. Perhaps it's for the lighting circuit, so it dims at night when your headlights are on (given that shift light doesn't have a light sensor to do it automatically).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...