Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i agree, and hence why i will be having a group buy soon

i have managed to secure an excellent price on vortech supercharger kits from the USA i will let you guys know more info soon

these kits the guys in america are punching out 298rwkw on 91ron fuel..........

is tat the one tat xiaolongbao selling?

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i agree, and hence why i will be having a group buy soon

i have managed to secure an excellent price on vortech supercharger kits from the USA i will let you guys know more info soon

these kits the guys in america are punching out 298rwkw on 91ron fuel..........

what sort of boost ? would have to be past 10psi more like 1 bar i think to get that power

and are these engines stock or rebuilt with better rods pistons and thicker head gasket?

would also need a new ECU/tune + injectors for that power me thinks

what sort of boost ? would have to be past 10psi more like 1 bar i think to get that power

and are these engines stock or rebuilt with better rods pistons and thicker head gasket?

would also need a new ECU/tune + injectors for that power me thinks

you can buy the complete kit which comes with the ecu / injectors

however i am looking at the tuner kits so we can use our own ecu / injectors like say a haltec or ems (something more familiar down here in oz)

and then yeh the kit comes with the walbro fuel pump also

you wont need a return fuel line

those figures were on a stock '04 model engine boost was only on 10psi / 91 ron fuel.........

it all comes down to the tuner i guess.........

here is the thread on G35 Driver

http://g35driver.com/forums/forced-inducti...hp-336rwtq.html

these are the prices so far........ trying to get them down a bit more

Full Kit w/ V3 - $4795.00 + $69.00 ship

Tuner Kit w/ V3 - $3595.00 + $69.00 ship

SHIPPING To AU - $395.00

For polished add $295.00

Pulley upgrade with the purchase of a kit = $49.00

if sold with a Tuner kit

Deatschwerk 440 injectors - $399.00 (6) (440)

Add $99.00 for 660

ECU UTEC txs-UTEC-350z - $699.00

Walbro 255 - $85.00

At first, i would prefer the HKS GT supercharger (just bcoz the brand)

After reading a lot of pages about vortech in US g35 forums, it seems like they love it and there are tons of information for it.. While not much info on HKS, other than it performs better at low-mid range but comes also with bad side (i forgot, coz too much reading, but can check if anyone needs the info)..

Alan, mind explaining a little more about long term under half bar boost? How bad did the engine ended up? does it go track very often or abused a lot?

Not sure, since my interest in FI has waned a lot (if I have the $10K to put down on engine mods, I'm building mine to displace 3.8L and rev to at least 8000RPM).

Most of the FI guys were saying that more than half a bar stresses the rods too much. How the Americans figured this out is beyond me

APS advertised their standard TT kit for the VQ35DE at 290rwkW @8-9psi on their site, but the installed figure that customers end up with was more like 280rwkW @7-8psi (figures with rounding).

The problem with a supercharger kit is that winding the boost down means buying a new pulley, which costs money, or fiddling with a bypass valve (which means your engine is taking parasitic loss for no power gain).

But the beauty of it is almost instant torque, better low range and generally better behaviour :D

I'm keeping mine n/a.. not much interest in FI personally. My previous car was turbo and boy was i happy when i moved to the V35.

I must admit though, i have at times thought of slapping on a dirty blower heh but n/a is my thing come the end of the day. I wonder if the kits you guys are looking at use a electro magnetic clutch.. that would be cool to have a switch on the s/c.. "hey wait a sec, let me turn on my blower.."

Not sure, since my interest in FI has waned a lot (if I have the $10K to put down on engine mods, I'm building mine to displace 3.8L and rev to at least 8000RPM).

Most of the FI guys were saying that more than half a bar stresses the rods too much. How the Americans figured this out is beyond me

APS advertised their standard TT kit for the VQ35DE at 290rwkW @8-9psi on their site, but the installed figure that customers end up with was more like 280rwkW @7-8psi (figures with rounding).

The problem with a supercharger kit is that winding the boost down means buying a new pulley, which costs money, or fiddling with a bypass valve (which means your engine is taking parasitic loss for no power gain).

There was a good link about this subject, around the area of FI Vs longativity of the stock engine. It was on G35 driver and has a list of its members who have gone FI on their G35, stating what kit they got whether it be SC, ST or TT, what year, model, miles used on the kit, whether or not they've modded their engine internals, quater mile time, power at the wheels, psi, if they blown their engine or not, any other mods etc etc, theres quite a list.

Some parts are actualy quite funny, becuase some guys have decided to go 15 or so psi with no aftermarket engine internals, cranking out 550rwhp or around that, over confidence was there greatest downfall when their engine blew, either that or shear stupidity.

http://g35driver.com/forums/forced-inducti...d-you-push.html

I found the thread very useful and is summarised at the first post. Hope it helps.

Dave

Edited by BIGGERDave
Hi Paul,

what brand spacer do you recommend, and where can I get it at?

Also anyone have any idea of installation costs?

Danny

Don't know which one is "BEST" but i got the Skunk2 Plemun Spacer becasue it is the easiest to put in.

Just do it yourself with this http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/274245 This guy has V1.0 you would get V2.0 (easier to put in)

Call Adam from http://www.999automotive.com.au/contactus.html (07) 3272 9992

Edited by V35_Paul
Don't know which one is "BEST" but i got the Skunk2 Plemun Spacer becasue it is the easiest to put in.

Just do it yourself with this http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/274245 This guy has V1.0 you would get V2.0 (easier to put in)

Call Adam from http://www.999automotive.com.au/contactus.html (07) 3272 9992

thanks paul, is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Inta...emZ270388307754

how much power increase u rekcon I can get with a spacer and new z tube?

thanks paul, is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Inta...emZ270388307754

how much power increase u rekcon I can get with a spacer and new z tube?

My opinion I reckon the motordyne spacer is better . Alot of Americans use this one over the skunk2 one and it's cheaper . My question is if the skunk is a good spacer then why did they have to bring out the skunk2 ??

And with the pop charger spacer and z-tube I'm hoping for 15-20 is at the wheels that's enough for me

thanks paul, is this the one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SKUNK2-Inta...emZ270388307754

how much power increase u rekcon I can get with a spacer and new z tube?

My opinion I reckon the motordyne spacer is better . Alot of Americans use this one over the skunk2 one and it's cheaper . My question is if the skunk is a good spacer then why did they have to bring out the skunk2 ??

And with the pop charger spacer and z-tube I'm hoping for 15-20 is at the wheels that's enough for me

My opinion I reckon the motordyne spacer is better . Alot of Americans use this one over the skunk2 one and it's cheaper . My question is if the skunk is a good spacer then why did they have to bring out the skunk2 ??

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think "Skunk2" is the actual brandname

At least you guys have some choices, I'm currently looking to get over a catback system from the US as I'll be farked if I can find a Japanese parts shop that makes one, only mufflers, or their products are US market only

All tuning parts are being made in the US for the infiniti boys, kind of ironic in a sense, I never thought I'd have to source tuning parts from America for japanese brand tuning parts :)

I know eventually more parts will become available, especially now the 370z is out, I'm bored with my car already!

Edited by Yo-Yo

Yup Skunk2 is the brand but for their spacer, they are upto version 2. Lol, bit confusing after the top post.

Can't wait to see the new 370z/370gt parts and the improvemets they will give :)

Yup Skunk2 is the brand but for their spacer, they are upto version 2. Lol, bit confusing after the top post.

Can't wait to see the new 370z/370gt parts and the improvemets they will give :)

i have been reading some threads about the 370z and the power gains are AMAZING!

especially in the stock exhaust, it is so restrictive.

On the 370Z, the americans have put in aftermarket exhaust, induction, and z tubes, and they are reaching 250RWKW! with just the induction / exhaust mods alone!

that is insane... the VQ35HR engine is awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...