Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know the part number to a flasher unit. i have LEDs and lights are flashing rapidly. i bought a Navara type one but its the wrong one.. going to return it tommorw.

tryed raising the wattage of my globes but they are the maximum they can go. 12v/21W on the rears. 12v/5w wedge type on the sides. problem is series II r33 front indicators globes are 12/16w on the stock bumper but as i changed my bumper and put small led lights it caused my problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/
Share on other sites

yeah i kinda want it do it tommorw. know any stores open?

You don't have your location up on the left column, so I can't help you with regards to your area.

But in saying that, places such as Malz, Auto One, and Stupid Cheap are usually open for a while on Sundays, as are 7 day shops which there are 3 of close to me.

Your best bet is to search in the Yellow Pages or Localink for stores advertising 7 day trading.

Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-4612844
Share on other sites

just switched to LED turn signals myself for the new topsecret front bar, tried a cheap flasher relay today, didnt work at all and blew the hazard fuse and the indicator fuse.

does anyone have an actual brand and/or product # for a relay that works? Id like to go and buy one tomorrow, really only have supercheap in walking distance from work and they are usually pretty useless in there when it comes to knowing what to get so id rather just be able to walk in and grab it.

EDIT: just doing some quick research, looks like Narva product 68251BL will do the trick, ill pick one up tomorrow and let u know how it goes

Edited by errno
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-4616473
Share on other sites

ive done this today and it worked for me

you pretty much have to take off the lower part of the dash to get access to the original flasher. its directly behind the knob u use to adjust the brightness of your dash. also if u have ur indicators on and touch the flasher u should feel the clicking it does. ive uploaded a picture on how it looks like..

next part is you want to get a L.E.D flashing unit.. ive also included a picture on how it looks like.. its the the Red one

unfortunately its not a plug in & play. the pins are on the opposite sides to the orginal flasher and if u do plug it in and try it u may blow it the new L.E.D flasher

u have to get a pick or a small needle and pick out female terminal pins in the plug that plugs into the flasher..

the new flasher (red) has small numbers on it near the male pins, Ive used a test light they equal this..

31- Earth (ground)

49- Ignition Switch

49a- To Indicator switch

match the female terminal pins up on the plug side and push them back in position. then plug the flasher in. All should work :cheers:

hope that helps

post-46811-1243258747_thumb.jpg

post-46811-1243258786_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-4616560
Share on other sites

ive done this today and it worked for me

you pretty much have to take off the lower part of the dash to get access to the original flasher. its directly behind the knob u use to adjust the brightness of your dash. also if u have ur indicators on and touch the flasher u should feel the clicking it does. ive uploaded a picture on how it looks like..

next part is you want to get a L.E.D flashing unit.. ive also included a picture on how it looks like.. its the the Red one

unfortunately its not a plug in & play. the pins are on the opposite sides to the orginal flasher and if u do plug it in and try it u may blow it the new L.E.D flasher

u have to get a pick or a small needle and pick out female terminal pins in the plug that plugs into the flasher..

the new flasher (red) has small numbers on it near the male pins, Ive used a test light they equal this..

31- Earth (ground)

49- Ignition Switch

49a- To Indicator switch

match the female terminal pins up on the plug side and push them back in position. then plug the flasher in. All should work :cheers:

hope that helps

i cant see how it wouldnt be plug and play?? guess ill find out tomorrow :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-4616657
Share on other sites

went to repco where i got the narva LED blinkers from, the useless bastards dont even stock that narva product code i found before for the other relay

got this one from supercheap, plugged it in and it still blew the indicator fuses so maybe the original wires do connect to the wrong part (which sounds really wierd)

p1000053.th.jpg

its a 12v 3 pin non-load sensitive which i was hoping would be fine

fishhy any idea what to do with this unit to rewire the original loom? whats the L, P for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-4617819
Share on other sites

mate simplest way looking at it.

the flasher unit is pretty much like a contact its Normally open. when current flows into the coil. it energizes it and through magnetism it closes the contact letting power through.

u get a multimeter set it to ohm.. and find the contacts. u should get a reading between two pins. one u shouldnt because its a normally open circuit (it will only work when the flasher is energized. that pin goes to your indicator switch.

the reason why your fuses are blowing is because u have ur indicator switch set as ground, so when the contacts closes it hits and there's a dead short.

hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-4618416
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...

Just a note about the leds being not cool. It is a matter of alternator loading or current draw. Each blinker bulb uses   21watts. That is 42 watts each side. Each led replacement uses 7 watts. That's 14 watts each side. That is a 66% reduction in current for the alternator. With the hazard lights on that is even less current from the alternators.

with today's cars using more current due to increased onboard electronics the current saving that led lights give is a must otherwise the alternator will be too large.

that is why I put all my lighting with leds. It takes the stress off the alternator. I don't care too much about looks. 

Michael.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271425-flasher-unit/#findComment-7851318
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...