Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Ive finally decided FMIC is the only way.. Much to my disappointment.

Is it true the above can be installed without hacking reinforcement? ill sacrifice the front bumper is necessary (ie replace if need be)...

Reason is, it is imperative the car can be returned to factory spec without evidence of a hack job.

Any others to speak of ? What about the stealth kits from JustJap?

Anyone who genuinely knows its much appreciated, id hate to go buy one and be informed its necessary to perform the above. As it simply wont happen...

Cheers in advance.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/
Share on other sites

Search with "return flow" or similar

There are dozens of topics, some of which even have pics/diagrams of installs and the success and/or issues encountered.

There is almost one every fortnight

I searched it didnt answer the question (perhaps i didnt search specifically as you have recommended, sorry mate my bad the crystal ball is out of order, return flow? means shit to me i wouldnt even know to attempt it) thus i wouldnt bother asking. Make sense?

Regardless is it some major hardship to ignore the thread if its uninteresting. Whose balls am i breaking exactly?

Some arent here to out do each other with technical prowess. How much hasnt been covered already on maybe half a dozen cars? ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4620748
Share on other sites

no one is focring you to change, but its certainly a good idea

many have fitted the blitz return pipe style cooler kit without hacking etc

as r31nismoid has posted, do a search on the blitz kit

from memory dezz in victoria fitted one, he might be able to offer advice if you can't find any info

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4620759
Share on other sites

i have the justjap return flow and as the others, had to cut the reo.

i dont really see you being able to get away with a front mount without having to cut the reo.

if you want to make sure you can return it to standard, buy a spare reo from a wrecking line and save it for when its needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4620932
Share on other sites

i have the justjap return flow and as the others, had to cut the reo.

i dont really see you being able to get away with a front mount without having to cut the reo.

if you want to make sure you can return it to standard, buy a spare reo from a wrecking line and save it for when its needed.

You don't have to cut the whole cross member of the reo! although it will allow for much better airflow to your cooler.

You do how ever have to notch out a section at each end of your reo (basically where the end tanks are) the curvature of the reo is to harsh and will hit your end tanks before reaching the mount points. (Speaking from a Series 1 r33 point of view)

If you really don't want to touch a thing on your reo then the blitz is not going to work.. As already mentioned the ARC will but i don't think its actually made anymore?!?! and justjap sell a cheapy which im sure is perfectly fine unless your chasing mega power.

Cheers

Camden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4621093
Share on other sites

Hey there, Ive owned 4 Blitz LM coolers........... You just need to trim the Left side and the Right Side......... Also where are you geting your blitz LM from and how much? i might be intrested........... one for my friend, let me know straight away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4621293
Share on other sites

This is mine. The MINIMUM amount that needs to be cut to fit a Blitz LM to a S2 R33.

P9050126Medium.jpg

P9050125Medium.jpg

Reason i emphasize Minimum, is this:

P9110129Medium.jpg

It took hours to get it to fit that tight. Makes it less obvious. Painted black, 99% of people wouldnt even notice/know.

R31 knows what hes talking about and gives great advice. No need to speak like that. He is right, i have posted these pics at least 4 times now.

"return flow" just means that the air returns back to the stock SMIC piping more or less.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272051-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4621345
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...