Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

im about to order t-clamps for my intercooler hosing on my gtr...can anyone tell me what the outside diameter is?

for some reason i think its 80mm but i need to confirm (i cant measure this as my hoses are with my builder who is currently away)

thanks :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272125-intercooler-hose-for-gtr/
Share on other sites

do yourself a favour and don't! T-bolt clamps are rubbish. personally I wouldn't use one to hold the expansion joint on my dunny!

you gotta be shitting me? i hope your not talking about the ones i've put a pic of below as they are all i will ever use for intercooler piping as they are by far the best for it out there i have not once had a hose pop off using these but i cant say the same for the rest of the hoseclamps out there, sure there bit big and bulky but they work and they work well!

clamps2.jpg

do yourself a favour and don't! T-bolt clamps are rubbish. personally I wouldn't use one to hold the expansion joint on my dunny!

you just cracked me up LOL, not good enough to hold a bog :/

ive always thought these are the best available?

you gotta be shitting me? i hope your not talking about the ones i've put a pic of below as they are all i will ever use for intercooler piping as they are by far the best for it out there i have not once had a hose pop off using these but i cant say the same for the rest of the hoseclamps out there, sure there bit big and bulky but they work and they work well!

clamps2.jpg

i see u have a gtr - what size t clamps are u using for your I/C hoses?

i have 3 choices:

a. 74-79mm

b. 80-85mm

c. 86-91mm

...now u may understand why i am confusED

you just cracked me up LOL, not good enough to hold a bog :/

ive always thought these are the best available?

noooo, they are the cheapest and best marketed ones available! not the best. they have flat insides and due to their design are usually way over tightened. you should not be using clamp force alone to seal the pipe. you want a clamp with beads in it to create seals and with rolled edges. sard dual bead clamps are my favourite but they are just re-selling another company's clamps i'm sure. the norma constant tension clamps look good too.

you want the clamps that have an inner ring, with dual beads, and rolled edges and then a clamp that goes over it. these wont cut into your joiners and they don't need to be wanged up to 1000ft/lb of torque just to seal either.

In that thread above I think someone posted a link to another brand of dual bead clamps, but even the sard brand ones are not expensive. plus it's not like you have to keep buying them over and over.

these are the ones to get: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4455418

out of all the cars i've used the Tbolt clamps on, i have never had a leak from any of them at idle or under boost

as for the answer, sorry dude i actually dont know what size the standard gtr stuff uses.. like alot of r32 owners.. my gtr doesnt have an engine in it at the moment lol

80-90mm should to it. something around that will usually have a wide enough range to fit. if you have to choose 80 or 90, I'd choose 90. things get pretty big by the time you add pipe OD plus joiner OD.

I'm interested in the beaded type clamps, however I can't find anywhere which sells them around here, so I've stuck to using Cummins Tee bolt clamps, which as long as they are done up in the right spot seem to work really well (in conjunction with their silicon hose which has a textured wrapping on it causing the clamps to stick really hard into it). $5.90 per clamp is exxy though, I'm just replacing mine as they start to stuff up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...