Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

do u have a aftermarket fuel pump tho? and what is R&R?

R&R is rich & retard. As I understand it once the ECU detects a condition that is very lean it puts itself in a mode that ups the richness of the mixture and retards ignition timing back to a point so it does not damage the engine.

I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump but my injector duty was very high as well so not sure if it is the fuel pump or injectors that were limiting factor. I wouldn't risk taking it for more than a test drive, if you can at least lower the boost to its minimum. The 2530 delivers quite a bit more air than the standard unit.

Edited by Kwyjibo

fuel pump wont really help. the standard injectors and pump are pretty evenly matched. ie the injectors can't outflow the pump. UNLESS the pump is failing and not flowing it's rated capacity.

just fit the turbo, then get it tuned straight way. best way to go. :P

Yeah not a good idea. I have just put a HKS 2530 in, I had heard from people that at standard boost levels it should be fine but its not true. I took mine out for a test for leaks/spark misfire but it was already leaning out massively by 10psi and going into R&R. Once you have injectors/AFM will probably be ok to drive to tuners if you keep it at low revs off boost and its not far.

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean

if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean

if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned

Injectors were on very high duty and the standard non-wideband o2 sensor was pretty much stuck to lean under any sort of load above about 7psi. It also started misfiring badly by 10psi boost. You may be right about it not running lean but either way I'd prefer to be safe than sorry.

If you have any other ideas why it would be misfiring that would be great, I know coils occasionally have problems but mine was running 1 bar on standard turbo with no problems previously. I got flamed on here about how I'm going to kill my engine last time I asked on here whether there is a way to tell if misfire is caused by lack of spark or something else even after telling people it was just a test and that I know it will run crap until it gets tuned(hence why its off the road and only out occasionally for testing).

A mate had a 2530 on a HR-31 redtop with better wiring to fuel pump, and no other mods apart from the usual cooler, EBC and exhaust and ran 1 bar for umm about 8 months before it went pear shaped and when the motor was stripped down was found to be a scored bore :ermm:

Before he fixed his fuel pump wiring up it ran like a dog though. IMO I'd still do the supporting mods for peace of mind.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...