Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

In regards to the variable intake, is it stilled hooked up and functioning? I imagine it would make a large difference with boost as well. Except IMHO you could get away with it being actuated and open fulltime by running constant 12v feed to the solenoid :banana:

tuner FAIL big time.

he was sick so it didnt go in yesterday :)

dont know when he will be back + when he is, he will have to reschedule me in which is more time loss.

booked in at another tuner tomorrow.

will be ready by the weekend.

can't wait.

dyno sheets etc up sat if all goes well.

Dan, afaik, the variable intake valve will function as normal on a NA (ill have to speak to my tuner about it first).

Nate, it still hits the front bar :)

will decide that shiet out later, will do my best to make it fit without cutting my sexy gtr bar.

the way my turbo sits, i was still able to use a bit of the stock NA intake > afm pipe which is a bonus.

i will definately get a custom pipe from the throttle body to the intercooler pipe as 1) the stock crossover one is so ugly and 2) the BOV just barely clears the power steering resevoir so i had to move it further down.

tuner FAIL big time.

he was sick so it didnt go in yesterday :)

dont know when he will be back + when he is, he will have to reschedule me in which is more time loss.

booked in at another tuner tomorrow.

will be ready by the weekend.

can't wait.

dyno sheets etc up sat if all goes well.

Dan, afaik, the variable intake valve will function as normal on a NA (ill have to speak to my tuner about it first).

Nate, it still hits the front bar :)

will decide that shiet out later, will do my best to make it fit without cutting my sexy gtr bar.

the way my turbo sits, i was still able to use a bit of the stock NA intake > afm pipe which is a bonus.

i will definately get a custom pipe from the throttle body to the intercooler pipe as 1) the stock crossover one is so ugly and 2) the BOV just barely clears the power steering resevoir so i had to move it further down.

shiiiiiiiiit.... hoped u would have been cracking in the 200's now......

soon mate... u will drive out of the tuners with the biggest grin on ur face :cheers:

Dori, check your phone, sent a few shots at different angles of the front bar/piping, hope it helps :P

With using the N/A intake pipe, is that going to work with the air box that you have? or will that need to be custom re-made? i found the JJR one to not fit so well on my N/A. I had to bend the side where it runs near the aircon cylinder (not sure of the technical name for it, it's next to the canister) and also had to unclip the canister and have it sit a bit lower. The part from the turbo to the AFM was fine though, just not sure how that's going to go with the N/A intake.

DOR134 is out and on the road, it made 201rwkw :ermm:

nate, did u get the 33 or 34 airbox cover? if its the 33, then yeah u had to mod abit to fit but for ashneels group buy, he redid the prototype so it fit R34 as well ;)

tuner said its got tgrouble holding boost up high in the revs but so far ive revved to like 5ish and it held 10-11psi fine - running straight off the gate (10psi spring) and no boost controller yet.

just found out that the braided oil line is leaking oil :@ back to pirtek i go to get it fixed up so hopefully i can get that done tomorrow morning.

love the ext gate & screamer, car feels 10x better then it did before :P

BOV is blocked atm so i got hectic doses and fluttering atm, hopefully can get a hose and plumb it all back up tomorrow coz i dont like the flutterssssss

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...