Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people I have not posted on here for a long time but damn SDU is pretty dead these days and the oldskool section is fully dead except for me and stagefumer lol.

My question is with the S13 style front end into R30 I know its been done a million times but recently my mate(who knows what hes doing and builds custom/modifyed cars for a living) said he measured up for another guy and rekons that it is not ideal at all like all wrong angles etc etc but knowing that its been done before makes me wonder what the hell hes on about! And I have some S14 5 stud/4 pot front hubs and S13 struts which I will put new aftermarket inserts in, weld on adjustable sleeves and put on adjustable camber tops. What I want to know is what have peolpe here used for bottom arms and caster rods on a HR30's?? and has anyone experienced anything bad? or is there a thread on here about this allready? I have dummyed them up onto my standard arms as showen in the pic bellow but it does not look right lol! and theres a couple of other pics of my turbo(MP T61 650HP), wastegate(46mm DSR), intercooler(600x300x100), engine bay seem welding/strengthening & other stuff aswell if anyones interested.

S14R301-1.jpg

turbgatebov001.jpg

Picstosort004.jpg

Heapsapixs017.jpg

Mycarwith18x95meisteronit.jpg

looks like a sweet project man.

as 4 the s13 stuff i put in my dr pretty much just bolted in (coilovers). used stocko caster rods and control arms. all i did was machine out the camber tops cos u have 2 mount them backwards (if using s13 stuff. can just get r30 ones) and then get stuff all - camber adjustment. drifted it at mallala and had no problems and came up fine when got a wheel alignment.

think stock s13 struts come up bit short but if gonna make em adjustable shouldnt have a problem man..

Good luck with the build mate looks like it will be a very cool car!

i want to do this to my DR30 Coupe so ill keep an eye on this

i cant help you on this, but i do have a dr30 sedan in NZ with rear brake cables and etc if you still want them? pm me!

Cheers Marc

i used s13 hubs and coilovers with all other suspension items standard r30 bits.

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

^That being said can those mounts on the bottom control arms be swapped? Remove Dr30 put in S13 no machining ?

Thanks for your help

Edited by FJ20DR30

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

isnt just down to the steering linkage angle.. There are some s13 tirerod ends (aftermarket) that flip the atachment point to the top of the linkage arm.. Eliminating bump steer

Haha wish those rims were mine but the are not unfortunatly there off my mates 180SX 18x9.5 Work Meisters but I will get something similar when shes nearly driving, FJ20DR30 thanks will PM you in a min, for a start I will just get the front 5 stud so I can get some nice wheels on there and because I have a shitload of 4 stud skid/drift wheels so gota use them up first then will do the back as thats way easyer to do as theres like 3 ways ya can do it and I have to get a expencive double caliper mount made for 2pot GTS25T calipers for the hydrolic hand brake and subaru leone front calipers for foot brake and cable parking handbrake, and yea bumbsteer is only to do with steering arm angle and what stagefumer said is what I will be doing anyway but I will be using a S13/A31/C33 steering rack most likley because the R30 steering box is a shocker and as for it being low well that is one of my biggest aims is to have it as low as its still able to be driven properly. Anyone got any pics of there setups ?

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

thats exactly what i did.

the guys that do the wheel alignment didnt mention anything about geometry to me.

The car drives fine and steers fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

did you have to modify the s13 coilovers to fit or did they go straight in. if modifying is needed is it able to be performed by anyone with a few tool skills.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...