Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people I have not posted on here for a long time but damn SDU is pretty dead these days and the oldskool section is fully dead except for me and stagefumer lol.

My question is with the S13 style front end into R30 I know its been done a million times but recently my mate(who knows what hes doing and builds custom/modifyed cars for a living) said he measured up for another guy and rekons that it is not ideal at all like all wrong angles etc etc but knowing that its been done before makes me wonder what the hell hes on about! And I have some S14 5 stud/4 pot front hubs and S13 struts which I will put new aftermarket inserts in, weld on adjustable sleeves and put on adjustable camber tops. What I want to know is what have peolpe here used for bottom arms and caster rods on a HR30's?? and has anyone experienced anything bad? or is there a thread on here about this allready? I have dummyed them up onto my standard arms as showen in the pic bellow but it does not look right lol! and theres a couple of other pics of my turbo(MP T61 650HP), wastegate(46mm DSR), intercooler(600x300x100), engine bay seem welding/strengthening & other stuff aswell if anyones interested.

S14R301-1.jpg

turbgatebov001.jpg

Picstosort004.jpg

Heapsapixs017.jpg

Mycarwith18x95meisteronit.jpg

looks like a sweet project man.

as 4 the s13 stuff i put in my dr pretty much just bolted in (coilovers). used stocko caster rods and control arms. all i did was machine out the camber tops cos u have 2 mount them backwards (if using s13 stuff. can just get r30 ones) and then get stuff all - camber adjustment. drifted it at mallala and had no problems and came up fine when got a wheel alignment.

think stock s13 struts come up bit short but if gonna make em adjustable shouldnt have a problem man..

Good luck with the build mate looks like it will be a very cool car!

i want to do this to my DR30 Coupe so ill keep an eye on this

i cant help you on this, but i do have a dr30 sedan in NZ with rear brake cables and etc if you still want them? pm me!

Cheers Marc

i used s13 hubs and coilovers with all other suspension items standard r30 bits.

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

^That being said can those mounts on the bottom control arms be swapped? Remove Dr30 put in S13 no machining ?

Thanks for your help

Edited by FJ20DR30

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

I was warned off doing this conversion due to introduced problems with bump steer.

I've just stayed with new koni inserts and will get the DR30 struts converted to adjustible platform once the car is licensed.

isnt just down to the steering linkage angle.. There are some s13 tirerod ends (aftermarket) that flip the atachment point to the top of the linkage arm.. Eliminating bump steer

Haha wish those rims were mine but the are not unfortunatly there off my mates 180SX 18x9.5 Work Meisters but I will get something similar when shes nearly driving, FJ20DR30 thanks will PM you in a min, for a start I will just get the front 5 stud so I can get some nice wheels on there and because I have a shitload of 4 stud skid/drift wheels so gota use them up first then will do the back as thats way easyer to do as theres like 3 ways ya can do it and I have to get a expencive double caliper mount made for 2pot GTS25T calipers for the hydrolic hand brake and subaru leone front calipers for foot brake and cable parking handbrake, and yea bumbsteer is only to do with steering arm angle and what stagefumer said is what I will be doing anyway but I will be using a S13/A31/C33 steering rack most likley because the R30 steering box is a shocker and as for it being low well that is one of my biggest aims is to have it as low as its still able to be driven properly. Anyone got any pics of there setups ?

Sorry to jack the thread ..

Are you saying that you remove the little stub type mount (with vertical strut mounts standard R30 strut mount) from the bottom arm and then put a bottom stub axel (With Horizontal strut bolt holes from an S13) into the hole in the R30 bottom arm then simply get the S13 strut mount it to s13 the stub axel and modify the top hats?

Does what im saying make sense?

If so how is the geometry after doing so?

Marc

thats exactly what i did.

the guys that do the wheel alignment didnt mention anything about geometry to me.

The car drives fine and steers fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
Standard s13 struts will be way too low, my s13 coilovers are pretty much wound up at max height and my car still sits fairly damn low.

did you have to modify the s13 coilovers to fit or did they go straight in. if modifying is needed is it able to be performed by anyone with a few tool skills.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
×
×
  • Create New...