Jump to content
SAU Community

Overboosting Problem Plzz Help

SXY_33

By SXY_33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys i just finished putting in my hypergear hi-flowed turbo and took it for a spin, but its boosting like crazy, my boost gauge showed that it was hitting round 20psi??? ive got a 14psi actuator and my bleed valve is still set on 12psi from the stock turbo. and even tho its boosting doesnt seem to hav that much power????

any help is help

my mods:

fmic

safc 2 (tuned to 12psi, which is wat i was running on the stock turbo)

turbo back exhaust, no cat

pod filter

040 pump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272918-overboosting-problem-plzz-help/
Share on other sites
SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
remove your bleed valve and see if its still doing it. should hold 14psi, you would need to re-adjust it to suit new actuator and turbo.

-alex

thanks for the quick reply alex

ill try that as soon as i get home from work

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If bleed valve is set to run 12psi on a 7psi actuator then on a 14psi actuator it will be getting 24psi. Remove the bleed valve and try again. If there is still a issue give us a call.

no worries mate will do, ill let u know how i go

RipNGrip Collaborator

RipNGrip

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had a over boosting problem here are some possible issues that could be causing the over boost 1. excessive back pressure causing partial closure of wastegate 2. failing actuator attached to interval/external wastegate 3. failing manual boost bleed valve

I had a leaking bov (prior owner had two atmo and plump back) with a creeeeeeping manual boost controller ($22 boost controller on ebay).

It was fun...... awesome drive at 17 psi until the AFM maxss out

Edited by RipNGrip
SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

opk so i pulled out the bleed valve and put on the stock t-piece, but it hasnt changed anything, still boosts like crazy, it starts peaking at 3500 - 4000rpm, and nothing has change from my stock setup, just the hi-flowed turbo... and sure its boosting, but no power is comin from that boost!!!!

any easy way of checking if the wastegate is actually opening???

could it be my safc 2, maybe the mixtures need to b changed to suit 14psi???

would an ebc fix this problem????

ashneel Grand Master

ashneel

Posted
Posted

i had similar problem with my highflow. acuators set of 15psi car was bosting close to 25psi with a turbo smart bleed valve once that was removed boost went down to 15psi.

while overboosting i didnt notice any extra kick to what im getting with my current 15psi

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

yeah i removed the bleed valve...

here is a pic

post-46165-1243991099_thumb.jpg

i also tried changing the "yellow" and "blue" hoses, but nothing seemed to changed

is it correct atm?????

what else should i check, which is the vacuum hose???

Edited by SXY_33
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
If bleed valve is set to run 12psi on a 7psi actuator then on a 14psi actuator it will be getting 24psi. Remove the bleed valve and try again. If there is still a issue give us a call.

How does that work?

You put a bleed valve on, set it @ 15psi (using a 7psi acutator) and then put a 14psi actuator in - its still going to be 15psi. There is no magical increase to 22psi because you changed actuator.

I changed my ext gate from 7psi to 14psi, overall boost didnt change (was running 17psi)

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Remove the pipe from the solenoid and plug it straight into the actuator. Ie. 1x pressure source from inlet manifold straight to actuator. Do not plug into factory solenoid.

so ur saying that i plug the hose going from the inlet pipe (the one the pod filter is on) straight into the actuator???? and wat just block the one from the intercooler pipe

or do i still use the t-piece and connect it to the intercooler pipe, just avoid the standard solenoid???

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

another quick question...

i hav a safc2 which i used to tune the ratios for the stock turbo at 12psi. now that i hav the hi-flow and 14psi, should i get it retuned, do my ratios need changing??? or should it still be fine??

thanks again guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...