Jump to content
SAU Community

Dr30 Intercooler

R34
 Share

Recommended Posts

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted

Anyone suggest the best way to upgrade the DR30 intercooler?

Should I just fit a new frontmount or is there an upgrade available to replace the std intercooler with a better one while retaining the std position in front of the left wheel?

I'd prefer to keep the std look and avoid too much cutting but not at the expense of efficiency

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273138-dr30-intercooler/
Share on other sites
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

No upgrade as such, but R33 standard intercooler is good for about 300hp.

If you look at the pics on the now, my track car thread, the intercooler on that had the air con still intact & all that was lost was the headlight washer pump.

Cheers, D

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

The inlet is on the bottom, that's why it's hard to see. I'm going to put it in the PNV and use a crossflow too.

I recently bought a Delta Fin Intercooler, they are lighter & flow better than conventional bar and plate construction. The one I bought is big, 600 x 300 x 78 & flows 1020cfm with a 0.2psi drop @ 20psi boost & good for up to 900HP. But that is for the track car.

600 x 300 x 76/8 isn't necessary for a street car, it's an over kill if anything.

Cheers, D

DR JOSH Community Regular

DR JOSH

Posted
Posted

My mate here has gone the smaller of the 2 china cores available fits in pretty nice and snuggly in between the headlights with minimal chopping

NEAME_HOOD.jpg

Where I have gone the larger, which to get to fit was a bit of a bitch. Welded 90 degree bends on the ends to get it in a little tighter with a bit more chopping necessary. To tell ya the truth I really should have just gone with the smaller option as performance gains would be minimal in comparison.

motor_now.jpg

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

The ebay kit is the large version. It's 600 x 300 x 76 (24" x 12" x 3" old school) I think what Josh is talking about is approx a 400mm core length, but I'm amused as to why both are mounted with the inlet & exhaust at the top instead of the bottom where a large majority of the space needed to fit them is under the headlights on an Iron Mask front.

Cheers, D

R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got my car back from the panel shop finally and was checking intercooler space.

Not too keen to cut the hell out of the centre support so may look at a 600x150 intercooler mtd low down in the airstream.

Seems to me only the lower half of a 600x300 would work in a street car anyway

ydr030 Mentor

ydr030

Posted
Posted

i had a chinese coooler on mine 600x300x75. worked fine. never sat well with me i have since gone 32 gtr cooler, the end tanks curve perfectly around the rails, i had to move battery to boot and make a few holes... but hey, its not chinese junk and does the job damn well

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted
i had a chinese coooler on mine 600x300x75. worked fine. never sat well with me i have since gone 32 gtr cooler, the end tanks curve perfectly around the rails, i had to move battery to boot and make a few holes... but hey, its not chinese junk and does the job damn well

Any pics mate? I have GT-R cooler, just need piping..

BensDR30 Experienced

BensDR30

Posted
Posted

Another option is a Water-to-Air IC. I'm using a PWR core in place of the OEM x-over pipe (my car is an '83 RS-X so it was non-intercooled).

I've just upgraded my pump to use a Bosch unit, and am using the air-con condenser as the heat exchanger. The next step is to fit a reservoir of about 5L to increase the capacity of heat-sinking that the system can cope with.

I'd post photos, but it's all apart right now with the pump upgrade and reservoir installation...

ydr030 Mentor

ydr030

Posted
Posted
Any pics mate? I have GT-R cooler, just need piping..

ill c wat i can do, most of it is hidden by the lip n bar, but if it helps..

another thing the origanal gtr mounts were no good 4 dr so i grounded them down and made my own to go on the top and bottom tanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...