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Nope. But after your group buy fell through i had to look at alternataves. The 33 lca's were nearly three quarters cheaper than any of the upper arms available. Seeing as not many people were running them i thought i would give it a shot, and seat of the pants review, they provide more gains than drawbacks. I still have my 32 lca's and if i ever do find some decent front uppers, such as the noltecs, i'll put the 32 lca's back on.

Don't get me wrong, not being critical, I was simply asking if you had checked the bump steer and ackerman. I haven't ever done the R33 lower control arm swap myself, although I have considered it a few times. I was hoping that someone else might have saved me the trouble of fitting them only to find that I ended up having to fix bump steer and ackerman problems.

Cheers

Gary

Yeah man. RB20's are sweet. Mine gets 1.5-1.6 Bar all the time and it loves it!

Yep, you need lots of boost to push the air through those tiny ports and past the undersized valves with their limited lift. :banana:

What am I hoping to achieve? Well I mainly want adjustability so I can try stuff to see if it works etc. I have camber and castor bushes (whiteline) that give some adjustment but I want to tinker and fiddle with stuff and learn while I'm at it. I do need more camber though so that's the main thing.

Was thinking about 33 lca's but yeah... Heard it's not the best way to go. I don't have buckets of cash so if I buy stuff it will be one at a time as I continue to develop the car.

I run the offset crush tubes in the inners and outers on the upper control arms, which gives me adjustment from 2.0 to 3.5 degrees negative. With 6 degrees of caster that works at every circuit we go to, except maybe Philip Island where I might need 4 degrees. But even there I can always add some more anti roll or stick in some slightly higher spring rates which will negate the need for more camber. Philip Island has a better/smoother surface so it tolerates higher spring and anti roll rates than other tracks.

Cheers

Gary

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