Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the advice Gary. It's because this person has been wrong on lots of topics in the past that I doubted what they were saying. I wasn't ignoring their advice, just questioning it because he didn't make an effort to explain exactly what he was saying - hence I posted on here. And I never listen to someone unquestionably; two minds in disagreeance reach a higher truth than two in agreeance. I should point out that I am not intending to lower my car car anymore than it is - it is already slightly lowered on GAB coilovers and I am satisfied with the ride height. Whether it was alligned to suit this at the time of installation I am unsure of; the previous owner did it. I say "installing coilovers" because that's what they are...I don't think I implied anywhere that Skylines don't come with factory coilovers.

The car is a daily driver so I'm not overly concerned with handling. The reasons I'm installing Teins are because the current GAB setup is rooted, the spring rates are way too firm for the street, I want to retain the freedom of adjustable height, and the front springs have next to no play in them or room for adjustment - someone told me these springs look like they were meant for an R32. However I am a perfectionist when it comes to installation so if there is a procedure that needs to be done for things to be 100% then I'm more than open to having it done.

To clarify, will it be fine to install the coilovers and get the suspension alligned a couple of days after installation? My suspension expert is about half an hour drive from me and is only free on certain days. How long does allignment usually take?

A few days won't matter, I was simply suggesting that you get the alignment checked soon after making changes if you care about the handling.

This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard as usual;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

BTW, R32GTST and R33GTST front springs are pretty much the same, so I don't see any logic in "someone told me these springs look like they were meant for an R32". More to the point, the rear shocks are quite different R32 to R33, so if the kit (front and rear, springs and shocks) fits an R33 then it definitely wasn't an R32 kit.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks again Gary. Will do a measure this arvo when I put them in. It was one of the places I went to when trying to source the Teins that told me the front coilover springs looked like they were from an R32. He said this because there was barely any travel available in the spring and the height adjuster was as far down the shock as it could go. Might have had no idea what he was talking about? I do agree with him that they don't look like they are meant to be there, however, as I can see myself there is no travel for the spring. It looks half compressed.

Nisskid, FFS man, what information could I have included in the original post that wasn't there and could stop you from assuming they are factory coilovers? I told you in the body of the original post that I had Tein SS going in. I can't clarify much more beyond "Tein SS" that they are aftermarket, adjustable coilovers. I thought the question was pretty friggen detailed compared to alot of the umbrella questions posted on here.

Nisskid, FFS man, what information could I have included in the original post that wasn't there and could stop you from assuming they are factory coilovers? I told you in the body of the original post that I had Tein SS going in. I can't clarify much more beyond "Tein SS" that they are aftermarket, adjustable coilovers. I thought the question was pretty friggen detailed compared to alot of the umbrella questions posted on here.

dunno why we are even arguing about this. all gary did was point out a technicality in your post, and he was right.

He pointed out an assumption that you people make, not me - why is that my fault? And the assumption was not only incorrect, it was based on false information to begin with...because...for the third time...it was stated in my unedited original post that I was installing Tein SS. How you can ignore the existence of this black and white evidence is beyond me.

He pointed out an assumption that you people make, not me - why is that my fault? And the assumption was not only incorrect, it was based on false information to begin with...because...for the third time...it was stated in my unedited original post that I was installing Tein SS. How you can ignore the existence of this black and white evidence is beyond me.

You quoted previously, "I suspected as such too. This guy does like to argue for the sake of arguing or whenever there's a way to show off some knowledge."

There's more than one of them out there. He likes to have the last word too, wait for it..........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...