Jump to content
SAU Community

Chipped Turbo Wheel

Kwyjibo

By Kwyjibo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have just put on a HKS 2530 on my car. The standard turbos front wheel was chipped really badly. The new turbo was in great condition, I have run it for only about 5km and for about 20 minutes on idle and now there are small chips on the turbo fins, and one fairly large one on the outside of one fin. I'm assuming my filter is dodgy but can anyone think of what else could cause this? Turbo had absolutely no shaft play and boosted fine when I drove it.

Anyone know what the next step is? I understand that there is going to be an enormous imbalance in the wheel now so I assume its going to have to be fixed. Can the front fins be replaced with a replacement unit somehow or can it just be rebalanced?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273495-chipped-turbo-wheel/
Share on other sites
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

you need to check your pipework going into the front of the turbo, make sure there are no rocks or dirt or anything in there at all! make sure your filter is working correctly, look at it carefully!

Yes you can replace the front wheel of the turbine without any issues, or you can get the turbo re-balanced as well or just leave it and continue to use it, i have seen many functional turbo's with chips in both the rear wheel and front wheel.

take the turbo off and send it to GCG to inspect it and see what the suggest

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

If you are missing weight on a specific point then it obviously cause vibration at high RPMs depends on how much weight is missing and what RPM your turbo goes up to. If you like PM us with the comp wheel size we might be able to help you out, Re-balance the rotation assembly once assembled. And it should be good as new.

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've sent you a PM regarding this for a quote. I am in Canberra though so would have to send the turbo to you(although I will be in Melb for a few days late June).

Any idea what is accetable shaft play for these turbos. There is still absolutely zero left to right. I can get extremly slight movement pushing back but only less than a mm and I have to push very hard(which is why I didn't notice any in the first place).

I've had a bit of a better look and the chipping looks pretty much the same from outside to inside of the fins, except one fin has a reasonabe chunk out of it on the outside. Still thinking I got dirt or something in the system though as my old turbo is pretty bad and the fins were perfect about 5km ago(when I first put it in my car) it was in a car previous to this as well so if there were issues I would have thought it would have happened before..

Edited by Kwyjibo
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
I've sent you a PM regarding this for a quote. I am in Canberra though so would have to send the turbo to you(although I will be in Melb for a few days late June).

Any idea what is accetable shaft play for these turbos. There is still absolutely zero left to right. I can get extremly slight movement pushing back but only less than a mm and I have to push very hard(which is why I didn't notice any in the first place).

I've had a bit of a better look and the chipping looks pretty much the same from outside to inside of the fins, except one fin has a reasonabe chunk out of it on the outside. Still thinking I got dirt or something in the system though as my old turbo is pretty bad and the fins were perfect about 5km ago(when I first put it in my car) it was in a car previous to this as well so if there were issues I would have thought it would have happened before..

wow there you go, you have had a offer from Hypergear to look at the turbo for you!

Send it to them and report back with the results, they will look after you

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats the plan, going to get it checked in Canberra, if it needs anything more than a balancing will send it to Hypergear. Found out the 2860r wheel is .5mm smaller at inducer and .1mm smaller at exd so hopefully thats a close enough match if I decide to get a new turbine(will discuss with Hypergear)

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
Thats the plan, going to get it checked in Canberra, if it needs anything more than a balancing will send it to Hypergear. Found out the 2860r wheel is .5mm smaller at inducer and .1mm smaller at exd so hopefully thats a close enough match if I decide to get a new turbine(will discuss with Hypergear)

If you have to get a new turbine wheel ask Hypergear if they can fit a bigger wheel so you get a bit of a highflow happening for a cheap price and bag some extra KW while you are at it!

Kwyjibo Rising Star

Kwyjibo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you have to get a new turbine wheel ask Hypergear if they can fit a bigger wheel so you get a bit of a highflow happening for a cheap price and bag some extra KW while you are at it!

Thanks thats a good idea, just don't want it to affect response too negatively. Its on an RB20 and was really only aiming for 220kW. Already felt slightly laggy with the standard 2530 on my quick test drive(untuned though) and don't want it much worse.

  • 2 weeks later...
hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

Not with broken fins any more. I took some photos before I sent it back.

and some information of what we did for you turbocharger repairs.

This is repairing a HKS2530 Turbocharger with broken Comp wheel.

This is a 60mm 63 trimmed comp wheel.

100_0104.JPG

It has been replaced with a new 60mm 64 Trim comp wheel. We had the CHRA and housings cleaned with all internals assessed. Luckily this turbo only require a new comp wheel. So looks like this once all put together:

100_0102.JPG

100_0103.JPG

The comp housing had lots of chips on inner frame, This has all been re-profiled out.

100_0100.JPG

Finished product:

100_0105.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...