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Risking

By Risking,
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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

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LHD is better for 3 out of 4 NSW tracks because they are anti clockwise (weight is on the inside).

Much less of an issue in a track car than drag, but the torque of the motor twists the left side off the ground too.

But best of all you would confuse the shit out of everyone who goes to sit in it.

Re tailshaft uni angles, is there a need to have the diff in the middle? Pretty sure standard GTR has 1 driveshaft longer than the other

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Risking Grand Master

Risking

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Duncans hit the head with the LHD comments.

It is a consideration atm.

The diff does not have to be in the center no, but Id like it to be.

So far it looks like the drive shafts will sit at a 22 degree angle which isnt tooooo bad.

I may offset the diff slightly if I have to but will try and work around it.

00WND Newbie

00WND

Posted
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Hey mate that is going to be one wild machine to drive!

If you offset the diff then all you would need to do is get some custome cvs made. Which isnt a big deal. Your car will probably come out under the weight break anyway way so to offset the weight shift from the diff moving you can add some weight to the other side when working out the corner weights/distribution etc. Alternatively you could place your drysump tank or battery etc there instead.

Would you be able to tell me the brand of the air jacks you have? And a possible place to get a hold of them(just jap)? Im looking for a set for a project ive got going on.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

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There is no way in hell I can use the original drive shafts anyways,

two reasons, an 800Hp RB26 is going to smash them to bits and the other is that the car is 100mm per side wider than factory so they are already way to short.

A CV joint will not be used in this kinda of project. Im going with proper universal joints on custom made dog bone style drive shafts. Ill machine up my own half shafts for the diff center and the outers will have a half shaft bolted to the hub with the uni running off that.

The diff will not be offset in the car ive decided. I want it centered and will work the rest of the drive line out around that.

Atleast that way I can get 2 pairs of shafts made up and the spares will fit either side of the car and I dont have to worry bout broken shafts not fitting the other side of the car etc etc.

Just jap sourced them for me but Im not sure if they can get more as I bought their entire stock. You could give them a call and ask.

  • 3 weeks later...
Risking Grand Master

Risking

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I got asked if id abandoned this project today.

Truth is its still here and being worked on at a much slower pace than previous.

Ive been doing multiple cages and work for other people to get the funds back together for this project. Which has run well and truely over budget already.

Ive got pretty much everything required parts wise now. Dry sump gear, fuel systems hubs suspension etc etc

The chassis has had the front braced a bit more and there is still more to come

post-20349-1252312452_thumb.jpg

Risking Grand Master

Risking

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thanks Liam, gotta catch up shortly, I havent been around much recently

Id honestly like to be further along that what I am but its all happening just a little slower than I planned.

Guess cant rush these things.

Hows the Hyundai coming along?

Risking Grand Master

Risking

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hahahahah the old excel is a little wider than it originally was.

Did you make a decission on the engine as yet?

So you guys have finally taken the plunge and moving factory then.

The super car has been parked as well I take it??

Ill email you a few photos of what the skyline is up to latter tonight.

Edited by Risking
Riverside Racing Parts Apprentice

Riverside Racing Parts

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That's not right on the 100mm, about 75mm there.

I have a dodge nascar engine with some very decent dyno figures. It fits but i have decided to run the car at first in the under 2 litre class.

Help us set it up without it trying to rip its self apart with 500hp. Sr20de is at the engine builders at the moment, looking for 250-270hp.

Supercar is next to going, needs some modifying to make the panels hang perfectly, paint, glass and a seat. Better sitting in the corner costing nothing for now.

Were moving right next door, can fit a truck in the new place and have engine/lunch/machine/work/car areas. Quiet a bit bigger

Cheers

Riverside Racing Parts Apprentice

Riverside Racing Parts

Posted
Posted

Those wheels are the wets so im not fussed with them sitting in, slicks will be smack bang on the 100mm.

We have 8 cars in the factory and 3 across the road. Place looked so big when we bought it, out grew it on 3 years.

tacker Mentor

tacker

Posted
Posted

Risking,

check out unitrax half shafts you might just be able to buy a 1000 hp set from a viper and adapt the flanges you are going to make. That way you can get the entire hub stub axle etc that fits all you need to do is make the adaptors to suit. Not expensive either.

Risking Grand Master

Risking

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its been a while but I have been accumulating parts still

Added to the pile of bits recently has been

tilton engineering Floor mounted pedal box and master cylinders

Peterson dry sump tank

Aeromotive Fuel pump and inline filters

A few Barnes dry sump pumps

The porsche 997 cup car rear calipers (have the fronts on the current car)

Cobra Sebring F seat

And a few other bits and pieces

Hopefully over the next few weeks ill get back into it and make things happen again

post-20349-1253002876_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1253003078_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1253004186_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1253004135_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1253004222_thumb.jpg

This photo showns the front pads we are using compared to the pad from an F50 brembo calliper.

post-20349-1253004293_thumb.jpg

Risking Grand Master

Risking

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My other GTR has two 044's mounted underneath the fuel cell in the rear of the car and they are still bullshit noisey inside the cabin.

I honestly have no idea how noisey the Aero pump is yet as I have not even powered it up. Im assuming from what ive been told that they are pretty quiet,

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