Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi As some of you will be aware from my last post im building a R30 FJ20 turbo Coupe race car

is there a rule of thumb with the setup of these for track use ie soft rear hard front etc or is it completely driver related ie what i prefer?

i mean does anyone no what kind of stiffness settings they used in the ATCC? we are in the process of doing the suspension at present and i guess im looking for a direction tho head in so im buying the parts to make the right effect if that makes sence?

Also what bluebird is it that the cross members, lower control arms and rack and pinon steering (non power assit) that will bolt strait into an R30? and can i still put S13 hubs etc on the bluebird lower control arms?

Cheers in advance

Marc

also if any one has an FJ20 engine mounts could you PM me?

Edited by FJ20DR30
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273510-race-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

I'd be keen to know the answer to your question too

I'm in the process of building my car for classic rallies.

So far I've installed koni shockies to get it licensed and have selby front and rear swaybars to fit.

Not sure what springs to fit plus need to get adjustible camber tops

I assume you're after the factory 'filled' mounts?

If so, I suggest you upgrade to RB mounts - all that's required is an adapter plate. I changed mine over with a scissor jack & removal of the strut brace only.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...