Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there, Yeh you can run your highflow turbo with your stock ecu but beware.... once your boost goes past 12psi..... you will hit R&R and therefore you will require your spark plugs to be gapped at 0.8mm and will start miss firing past 3-4rpm.... it will miss..

I dont think RnR has anything to do with the spark plugs, its the AFM reaching its limit is it not

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R&R, stands for rich and retard. Nissan programmed the engine mapping so that when the standard airflow pattern is exceeded by much then the ECU dumps in more fuel and retards the ignition timing. This is to protect the engine as the only reason for higher than normal airflow is something is wrong or someone has fiddled with the engine, either way Nissan has taken steps to protect the engine from damage. Sticking on a high flow turbo is most definitely fiddling with the engine so, without tuning, you can expect piss poor fuel economy, oil contaminated with fuel and an incurrable misfire from the retarded ignition timing.

There is plenty written on the subject of R&R, a lot of it by me, so I strongly suggest that you try a search.

Cheers

Gary

HKS GTRS kits are worth considering now the Aus/Yen is decent. Many highflows use a similar (or the same) core as the GTRS - but none will get results quite as good due to housing constraints. Rated at 290kw (flywheel) - so around 230rwkw at just under 1bar.

Plus a GTRS kits is 100% new parts and you get to keep your old turbo.

I'm looking into turbo replacements as well, but considering the total all up cost would be $4800 it's hard to justify.

480cc injectors ~ $450

Z32 AFM ~ $250

Power FC ~ 1200

HKS GTRS ~ $2900

Total = $4800.

HKS GTRS kits are worth considering now the Aus/Yen is decent. Many highflows use a similar (or the same) core as the GTRS - but none will get results quite as good due to housing constraints. Rated at 290kw (flywheel) - so around 230rwkw at just under 1bar.

Plus a GTRS kits is 100% new parts and you get to keep your old turbo.

I'm looking into turbo replacements as well, but considering the total all up cost would be $4800 it's hard to justify.

480cc injectors ~ $450

Z32 AFM ~ $250

Power FC ~ 1200

HKS GTRS ~ $2900

Total = $4800.

That $4800 equals solid reliable quality performance. It really is worth it to do it right the first time than doing it cheap and having stuff go wrong or being unsatisfied in the end and spending more money for quality upgrades you should have done in the first place.

4800 isn't very expensive anyway... Your getting a 250rwkw ish performance machine for around 25k in total.

Thats just my opinion though :P

  • 5 months later...
Hey there, Yeh you can run your highflow turbo with your stock ecu but beware.... once your boost goes past 12psi..... you will hit R&R and therefore you will require your spark plugs to be gapped at 0.8mm and will start miss firing past 3-4rpm.... it will miss..

Hey there- What the bloody hell is R+R?? i run 14psi on my stock turbo (rb25) and runs kick ass!! lol

I have my plugs gapped at 0.5mm and just have FMIC, HKS POD, 3inch catback and dont have the missing prob-

I only recently got the catback done too and didnt have the issue before-

so just curious, Am i just lucky??

Yep you are one in a million take it to the strip and run a ten already. I'd be surprised if the standard dump pipe could even flow 14psi.. as well as the turbo.. among other things...

I ran my highflow on standard ecu for about a year driving around on it fine. It had a bit of a flat spot up the top but apart from that the ecu seemed to want to play ball.

That said i would much rather drive a car with an ecu (power fc/microtech) with a standard turbo than a highflow and stock ecu having had both now.

The best thing about highflow turbos if you go that path is there is always people wanting to buy them... coz they're cheap and effective and produce quite good results. So down the track if you want to go to a bigger turbo then you should be able to sell the highflow for near what you bought it for provided it's in same condition.

Hey there- What the bloody hell is R+R?? i run 14psi on my stock turbo (rb25) and runs kick ass!! lol

I have my plugs gapped at 0.5mm and just have FMIC, HKS POD, 3inch catback and dont have the missing prob-

I only recently got the catback done too and didnt have the issue before-

so just curious, Am i just lucky??

you probly THINK it runs kick ass because your boosting '14psi bro'. But its probly not. Its just fact.

I'd be surprised if the standard dump pipe could even flow 14psi.. as well as the turbo.. among other things...

are you serious? the stock dump will flow 14 psi easy, my boost controller decided to give up one day and my stock turbo was hitting 25psi for a good 3-4 runs in 3rd, makes a different noise up at that level haha.

are you serious? the stock dump will flow 14 psi easy, my boost controller decided to give up one day and my stock turbo was hitting 25psi for a good 3-4 runs in 3rd, makes a different noise up at that level haha.

Ouch, said the Head gasket

you probly THINK it runs kick ass because your boosting '14psi bro'. But its probly not. Its just fact.

It certainly runs alot faster when its on 14psi then any other- you dont have to be clever to figure that out-

it was a little bumpy above 13 at first, then i gutted the cat- then it went fine- now with the 3inch catback its running even better! :)

Yep you are one in a million take it to the strip and run a ten already. I'd be surprised if the standard dump pipe could even flow 14psi.. as well as the turbo.. among other things...

I ran my highflow on standard ecu for about a year driving around on it fine. It had a bit of a flat spot up the top but apart from that the ecu seemed to want to play ball.

That said i would much rather drive a car with an ecu (power fc/microtech) with a standard turbo than a highflow and stock ecu having had both now.

The best thing about highflow turbos if you go that path is there is always people wanting to buy them... coz they're cheap and effective and produce quite good results. So down the track if you want to go to a bigger turbo then you should be able to sell the highflow for near what you bought it for provided it's in same condition.

The Dump can handle whatever you throw at it.. i couldnt imagine a stock turbo hitten 25psi without a bang but it does fine with just 14 psi now-

Im going to4e high mount with ext w/gate soon enough, that should prove to be interesting, str8 3inch from turbo to canon... mmm... lol

  • 1 month later...

sori for digging up an old thread.

ive settled on a hypergear highflow and nistune in the new year.

r33 series one what do stock inj max out at?

i've been told various things, tuner told me 260hp atw it maxes out at.

and that injectors max out before the afm does.

does that sound about right?

i jus don't want to have to overcapitalise injectors if i don't have to.

i surfed through the rb25turbo upgrade thread and 33's seem to make easy 220rwkw on stock inj. without an fpr.

anyone had much gains with a nistune on a totally stock r33 (exhaust and fmic, 10psi)?

it all depends. i maxxed myne at 185rwkw on a very restrictive setup with a safe tune, other people have pushed them to over 250rwkw. to make the most of the highflow safely you'll need some bigger ones tho.

Edited by JonnoHR31

it seems that to make a high flow upgrade worthwhile, i have to upgrade injectors.

i have tried searching for hours,

but if i nistuned my car as it is, (fmic, 3.5 inch turbo back. 10psi, bosch 040, bcpres7)

would there be much gains?

i just want to justify $1000 down the drain.

i was told to source 550 cc inj

are there any direct bolt ups from other nissans that are available secondhand?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...