Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yep, consult cables work, the plug is located with the in cabin fuse box. i've tried a few of the free consult software interfaces and don't remember seeing anything like cold start enrichment. the one i want to get is nissan datascan, it is supposed to be a bit more in depth than the free software getting around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4641519
Share on other sites

As I understand it any changes you make to a stock ecu with through the consult do not stick - .i.e. once you unplug it and drive off everything returns to default mode. To make changes to settings you will need a nistune chip or for the S1 an expensive daughterboard that can be chipped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4641579
Share on other sites

yeah, all i can do with the software i have is, switch the auxiliary thermo fan on and off, raise and lower the idle, turn cylinders off, etc. but like kiwi said, its all real time testing that isn't a permanent change. the other major features of the software are being able to read and clear fault codes, and some of the software has data logging capabilities, good for looking at afm voltage or injector duty cycle vs rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4641708
Share on other sites

Ryan - the ECUTalk consults work brilliantly on just about any nissan (with consult ports) and I cant speak highly enough of them. There is a bucket load of other software available that works with their cables, and my personal pick is the original nissan datascan (there are a few others that are pretty good too)

As I understand it any changes you make to a stock ecu with through the consult do not stick - .i.e. once you unplug it and drive off everything returns to default mode. To make changes to settings you will need a nistune chip or for the S1 an expensive daughterboard that can be chipped.

not quite. There is a few things that can be changed with just a consult cable. For instance, the base timing, idle speed and stuff like that can be changed quite easily using just the consult cable.

Search nissan consult on ebay world wide. alot cheaper :P

NO DONT DO EEEETTTT!!

From personal experience, this is a bad idea. I went through 4 ebay specials before I bit the bullet and got the ECUTalk one. Apart from the fact that a lot of other places only use serial ports (and trying to find a usb-serial converter that will talk to them is damn near impossible) they dont all work - I had one ebayer swear black and blue that the unit I returned was not faulty, despite being back to back tested with a known one and no one could get any signal from it (tested on 2 stageas and my pulsar and 3 different laptops)

IMO just get the ECUTalk cable (with USB output) and you wont regret it. If you do want to buy a ebay special just because they are cheaper, I can send you the last ebay one I bought, and didn't bother to return, for free, and then you can have all the frustration without the expense! :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4644400
Share on other sites

Ryan - the ECUTalk consults work brilliantly on just about any nissan (with consult ports) and I cant speak highly enough of them. There is a bucket load of other software available that works with their cables, and my personal pick is the original nissan datascan (there are a few others that are pretty good too)

not quite. There is a few things that can be changed with just a consult cable. For instance, the base timing, idle speed and stuff like that can be changed quite easily using just the consult cable.

NO DONT DO EEEETTTT!!

From personal experience, this is a bad idea. I went through 4 ebay specials before I bit the bullet and got the ECUTalk one. Apart from the fact that a lot of other places only use serial ports (and trying to find a usb-serial converter that will talk to them is damn near impossible) they dont all work - I had one ebayer swear black and blue that the unit I returned was not faulty, despite being back to back tested with a known one and no one could get any signal from it (tested on 2 stageas and my pulsar and 3 different laptops)

IMO just get the ECUTalk cable (with USB output) and you wont regret it. If you do want to buy a ebay special just because they are cheaper, I can send you the last ebay one I bought, and didn't bother to return, for free, and then you can have all the frustration without the expense! :down:

hmm i think that at the end of the day the "ebay specials" aren't any cheaper anyway if you need usb support. the serial-usb adapter i bought (belkin) was about $50, then the e-bay special consult port was $60ish anyway, so it cost me more that the native USB alternative from ecutalk. then theres software on top of that and the hassle of finding it for free if you're so inclined. AND you're keeping your cash in australia. convinced yet? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4644664
Share on other sites

Ryan - the ECUTalk consults work brilliantly on just about any nissan (with consult ports) and I cant speak highly enough of them. There is a bucket load of other software available that works with their cables, and my personal pick is the original nissan datascan (there are a few others that are pretty good too)

not quite. There is a few things that can be changed with just a consult cable. For instance, the base timing, idle speed and stuff like that can be changed quite easily using just the consult cable.

NO DONT DO EEEETTTT!!

From personal experience, this is a bad idea. I went through 4 ebay specials before I bit the bullet and got the ECUTalk one. Apart from the fact that a lot of other places only use serial ports (and trying to find a usb-serial converter that will talk to them is damn near impossible) they dont all work - I had one ebayer swear black and blue that the unit I returned was not faulty, despite being back to back tested with a known one and no one could get any signal from it (tested on 2 stageas and my pulsar and 3 different laptops)

IMO just get the ECUTalk cable (with USB output) and you wont regret it. If you do want to buy a ebay special just because they are cheaper, I can send you the last ebay one I bought, and didn't bother to return, for free, and then you can have all the frustration without the expense! :happy:

So this one? or EcuTalk?

I is lost

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

http://www.ecutalk.com

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4644873
Share on other sites

I cant speak for the PLMS ones, having never actually used one, but I can say that the ECUTalk ones work brilliantly, and even though there is a few bits and pieces you have to do (usb drivers installed etc) making them a little more involved than "plug and play" the step by step instructions are stupidly easy to follow, even for a computer noob like me.

The service you get from NewKleer if you have any installation issues is second to none too IMO. Just get one man, and if you are chasing any software let me know :happy:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4645058
Share on other sites

i'd say either one would be fine, they are both good companies with a quality cable. the only thing everyone is getting at is to get a usb one as a lot of the usb to serial convertors don't work. at the time i got mine they didn't have the usb ones so i got a Blatz brand one and use it with a belkin serial convertor with no problems at all with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4645078
Share on other sites

I take it the ECUtalk V2 display is meant to be a permanently connected in car feature - does it display all of the information that would be displayed on a laptop or do you still need a laptop to gain all of the features available via the consult cable?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4653709
Share on other sites

the display is a standalone device, intended to be permanently hooked up (but its plug and play, so u can take it out and plug it into someone elses car to check it) - if you dont want or care to use the laptop with it, you dont need to. it doesnt need a laptop connected for it to work. it can display most, but not all the info that can be shown with software (but since you can use it like a usb consult cable with a laptop if you want, if you need to know anything not shown you can use whatever software on the laptop with the display in USBIF mode).

the only time ive personally needed to hook up a laptop to it was to update the firmware (when there are new features added to the display you can get them via firmware updates), and once to have a play with active tests (changing timing/fuel temporarily)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4653717
Share on other sites

yeah, thats why it was made, so u dont need to lug a laptop around to monitor the car. firmware updates require the display be connected to the car to get power, so youd either need to get the PC within a couple metres of the car, or borrow a laptop. of course u dont need to upgrade the firmware if it has nothing new that you want to use.

also in future if there is logging ability to sd card, you would need power to download the logs also.

if you're that way inclined, u can just buy a 12v dc adaptor and a female consult port from wreckers (or i have a spare one for $10 i can send with display) and rig that up for 12v power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4653764
Share on other sites

That V2 display looks like a pretty good thing.

I've personally got a copy of NDS - which is very handy for diagnostics & dyno tuning (via the 'dashboard' function). It also has another tacho/speedo page with speed-alert which would be excellent if you had a carputer fitted & it was active all the time.

The V2 display would be perfect for the trip-meter function if nothing else.

PLMS have also been playing around with Consult/Nissan ECU's for many years, so they too have a very reputable product lineup.

I reckon I might get a V2 display & permanently mount it in the car.

:(

***edit***

Just bought one...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273589-ecutalk/#findComment-4654237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...