Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a few places where the clutch can be squeaky.

1: Pedal box pivot joint (common)

2: Clutch master cylinder thrust rod - a: at pedal connection (common). b: at ball and socket.

3: Slave cylinder thrust rod - a: at fork pivot point. b: at ball and socket.

4: Clutch throw out fork pivot.

5: Throw out bearing carrier.

Instead of using CRC/WD40, use a light film of grease instead.

This will sound odd, use olive oil to lube...Use some cotton wool or tissue ect soak in olive oil then sponge it on while moving the pedal.

The reason behind this is it will leave a nice thick film of lube on the parts and wont stink out your car like wd-40 ect.

I use olive oil on hinges in houses ect for the same reasons and it works better than anything else for low speed/load lube apps.

It's long lasting and should be ideal to do your pedal box.

It's a very old trick, I know it sounds odd but the proof is in the results.

Edited by madbung

It seems its much more louder outside, the wd40 helped a little to soften the sound but the squeaks are still there.

I might try this olive oil idea. will let you know how it goes.

  • 2 weeks later...
There are a few places where the clutch can be squeaky.

1: Pedal box pivot joint (common)

2: Clutch master cylinder thrust rod - a: at pedal connection (common). b: at ball and socket.

3: Slave cylinder thrust rod - a: at fork pivot point. b: at ball and socket.

4: Clutch throw out fork pivot.

5: Throw out bearing carrier.

Instead of using CRC/WD40, use a light film of grease instead.

i wouldnt recomment using grease around any rubber seals. We changed a clutch master cylinder on a car yesterday. The grease actually f#*ked up the master cylinder because it ate away the rubber seal

This will sound odd, use olive oil to lube...Use some cotton wool or tissue ect soak in olive oil then sponge it on while moving the pedal.

The reason behind this is it will leave a nice thick film of lube on the parts and wont stink out your car like wd-40 ect.

I use olive oil on hinges in houses ect for the same reasons and it works better than anything else for low speed/load lube apps.

It's long lasting and should be ideal to do your pedal box.

It's a very old trick, I know it sounds odd but the proof is in the results.

Plus, now your joint has that authentic mediterranian taste that can't be beat :P

  • 5 months later...

I had exactly what you described. Bought a new pedal box fixed it completely. The old one had been welded up in an attempt to fix the bending that often occurs on the stock unit. You can even buy a Nismo one which is much stronger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cross sectional area of a circular hole scales with the square of diameter. So a 2mm diameter hole is 4x the area of a 1mm hole. Not double. The 1.7mm hole is nearly 3x the area of a 1mm hole. You do not need restrictors at both ends of the oil supply line. If you have new, additional restrictors at the turbo end, that you did not have before, then you do not need a restrictor at the inlet end.
    • Hi all. Been a while but things are moving along. I just have something that I am wondering about. Since I will use OEM turbo oil pumbing, I got myself a new bolt, the one that goes into the engine block oil feed. As I recall (and see visually) this bolt comes restricted with I think a 1.7mm hole? Not quite sure but it was something around that size. The turbos have 1mm restrictor bolts installed, as necessary due to ball bearings and my higher oil pressures. Can I now just use that OEM bolt with the 1.7mm hole in for the engine block or will this actually be too much oil flow restriction and I have to drill it out first? In my head it would make sense for the bolt to be at least 2mm wide as both turbos take "1mm of oil flow". Do let me know if my logic is flawed here, I just want to make sure I don't kill my turbo bearings with too little oil. Don't know if I can trust the saying I read somewhere that ball bearing turbos essentially only need an oil mist
    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
×
×
  • Create New...